Rehoboth Foodie

The Foodie prides himself on being an equal-opportunity eater. Though Rehoboth Beach restaurants will always be his passion, there are a few well-kept secrets within drooling distance that do deserve some attention. One of these special little spots is Patsy's in Bethany Beach.

Former kite mogul and Executive Chef Patsy Dill Rankin and her daughter, Chef Robin Rankin (both graduates of L'Academie de Cuisine), whomp up their "Key West and Southern Inspired Cuisine" in a little beach house just off the ocean in downtown Bethany. Seating on the big front porch goes quickly in season, but indoor seating is fun too, with colorful objets d'art (that's French for "tchotchkes") all over the place.

Everything--stocks, dressings, pickles, desserts, smoked/prepared meats, whatever--is made in-house. Most of my experience has been with their Sunday Brunch, and the star of the show is the delicious homemade sausage. Before you mutter "he likes everything" (he doesn't), just try it. It's surprisingly lean, and not at all greasy. The flavors are clear and savory without the overwhelming taste of sage so annoyingly typical of some sausage recipes. Actually, though they serve it for breakfast, the addition of a few little pepper flakes would make it a wonderful mild Italian sausage.

Good Fried Chicken is a major production (The Foodie knows), and Patsy and Robin make it only on Sundays. And it's worth the wait. Fresh out of the fryer, it's crispy and firm, without even the slightest hint of grease (an art form that has everything to do with oil temperature). Though a couple of my trusted Foodettes have felt that it was a tad salty (they still gobbled it all up), it is consistently some of the best fried chicken around. (No, this is not a fluff review like in the shiny magazines that live and die by restaurant advertising. This is your trusted Foodie speaking the truth. Now go, munch, and then please post your thoughts below.)

Another staple of the Sunday extravaganza is the Eggs Benedict. This is another dish that can quickly become nasty if not prepared right. Their "traditional" version (perched atop an herbed, yeasty biscuit with apple-smoked bacon--a fine substitute for the (even more) traditional Canadian Bacon--and homemade hollandaise) comes out right every time. The poached egg is properly drained so as not to soak the bread with water, the "white" is cooked through but the yolk is still runny. Though a bit of vinegar is often used in the poaching process, there's no hint of it in the finished dish. Very nice. The other two versions of the Benedict (with a fried tomato or with crab or salmon instead of bacon) are also tasty (I have stolen bites of both), but I'm a traditionalist when it comes to Benedict.

Evening dining is dominated by the Lobster Bouillabaisse. The leek/fennel broth could be served as a beverage with a big straw. The dish is a production and I suggest you be hungry when you order it. The menu does change from time to time, so I hope they also have the crab cakes (I suspect they're a staple). Lightly spiced (you can taste the crab!), the whole thing is set off by an ever-so-slightly-sweet celery root/granny smith remoulade that perfectly complements the darkly sauteed cakes. Again, my nighttime dining experience at Patsy's is limited, and the only other dish I have personally experienced is the Tempura-fried fish. The preparation is delightfully simple, and the combination of the crispy fish (generally snapper), jasmine rice and shitakes makes for a brand new taste all its own. Have you been there for dinner? Grace us with your thoughts below, if you would.

Patsy's is at 121 Campbell Place, just off Pennsylvania Ave. one block north of Garfield Parkway. They take reservations (I strongly suggest them for Sunday Brunch) 302-537-2433. Click here for Patsy's dinner menu. (D., Bar). Price range for regular dinner: Expensive. Price range for Sunday Brunch: Moderate.