Rehoboth Foodie

Bethany Blues first location in Bethany Beach was a smart move. The bar quickly became a "Cheers"-like watering hole for visitors and locals alike. The food was consistent, though there were some hits and misses. As a Pitmaster and former BBQ restaurant owner myself, I can't help but set the bar pretty high.

We started with the Hot Lump Crab Dip (cheesy, with big pieces of crabmeat, artichokes and spinach, and lots of bread slices to preserve the all-important dip-to-dipper ratio). Try the Chipotle Calamari. It's darkly crispy and nicely spiced with a rich, vinegary dipping sauce. Previous visits also involved "Fiery Pigs on the Wing"--not chicken, but actually pork riblets prepared Buffalo style. Also, don't miss the terminally sticky Jack Daniels wings. You'll need to be hosed down afterwards, but it's worth it.

Pulled/chopped meats and ribs define just how "authentic" a BBQ restaurant actually is. I ordered the BBQ pork two ways: the "pulled" version, and their "Carolina" version. [We pause for a quick tutorial: "Pulled pork" is pulled off the bone in chunks by hand (usually from a smoked pork shoulder/"Boston Butt"). You apply your own toppings, including slaw and, (if it's "Memphis Style") a tomato-based BBQ sauce. "Carolina style" is most often chopped and served with a simple vinegar and pepper sauce ("Western Carolina style") or a vinegar/mustard/pepper sauce (technically "Eastern Carolina style"). With so many regional styles, these are only guidelines, of course.]

Their pulled pork was good, with no fat or gristle (obviously expertly pulled). Next time I'm going to ask for more "burnt ends" (the outside of the shoulder that is charred and VERY flavorful). The hickory smoke taste tends to be strongest toward the outside of the shoulder. I piled on the cole slaw and went at it. The Carolina style is already sauced, and the all-important vinegar is combined with what appears to be a tomato base. Though not quite the traditional "Carolina" style, it was still pleasantly acidic.

When ribs are removed from the smoker, they require a quick sear over an open flame to develop a dark, crispy crust. In past versions of this review, I've noted that I'd like to see more of this crispy crust at Bethany Blues. Eureka! On our last three visits, the ribs have been close to perfect: nicely seared, well-smoked, tender and flavorful. They offer two cuts: The "St. Louis" cut and the smaller "Baby Back" ribs (no, not from baby pigs; just a standard rack that has been cut to remove the curved end of the bones). Though St. Louis cuts tend to be fattier (more juicy and flavorful), Bethany Blues' version had a lot of meat and actually not as much fat as I expected. The Baby Backs are smaller, of course, and in fact had even more of that flavorful seared "crust" that I referred to above.

UPDATE: On our most recent visit I noticed that Bethany Blues removed the two worst items from their "sides" menu. I'd like to think it was because I made such a big deal about them, but it really doesn't matter: The cement-like cheese grits and that terrible sesame-ginger slaw are gone. They have been replaced by a cheezy creamed corn and a jalapeno slaw. I had both last night. The corn is quite good, and the jalapeno slaw is delicious, though not nearly as hot as they say it is. The sides arrive in generous portions, easily shareworthy. The mac & cheese is still creamy and thoroughly cheesy. I also complained in the past (as did those who posted comments) that the sides often arrive at the table lukewarm. That has not been the case on our last two visits. Apparently somebody's manning the window and paying attention. By the way, Hickman's Meat Market recently moved out of the building, but Bethany Blues is still serving steaks. They are also beginning to feature some name blues acts in the bar, with the booking handled by none other than Sydney, one of Rehoboth's live music pioneers.

One of our dining companions (who also happened to be the "birthday girl"), had the Blues Bacon Cheddar Burger. It was nicely grilled with the melted cheese holding firmly onto the apple wood bacon. My other dining companion had the pulled chicken. It was well prepared (more shredded than pulled, but that's the way it is with chicken) and pleasantly smokey. The Big Test was passed: no bones, gristle or fat chunks. Hopefully that's the way it is all the time. On the advice of my favorite psychotherapist, I ordered the Slider Sampler as a main course (three little sandwiches on fresh, soft rolls, piled generously with your choice of brisket, sausage, pulled pork--Memphis or Carolina style--and pulled chicken--and a side of slaw).

I've watched the Lewes Bethany Blues mature over the last few years. The kitchen and service were haphazard early on, but the place appears to have hit its stride. I admire their willingness to adjust the menu when it needs adjusting. Back to last night's visit, I don't usually write about service unless it's bad, but I must say that last night's value-added was our young Vietnamese waiter, Chinh. He was a stand-up act in his own right, and everything the Foodie threw at him (metaphorically, of course) he threw right back. Bethany Blues uses the "runner" system, so the food arrived at the table quickly and piping hot under Chinh's watchful eye.

Bethany Blues is on the east side of Ocean Highway (18385 Coastal Highway), past the Midway Outlets and just before the turn-off for the Cape May/Lewes Ferry. It's huge, with all sorts of nook and cranny dining rooms and a spacious bar which now features regular entertainment administered by jazz expert Sydney (owner of the long-gone "Sydney's," one of the first restaurants in Rehoboth to feature name entertainment). Though Bethany Blues seems to be open all the time, give 'em a call just to make sure (302) 644-2500. Click here to view the dinner menu. (L, D, Bar) Price range: Moderate.