Rehoboth Foodie

Bethany Blues first location in Bethany Beach was a smart move, as there's not a whole lot going on down there in the off-season. The bar quickly became a "Cheers"-like watering hole for visitors and locals alike. The food was consistent and, for the most part, good, except for some temperature issues that I'll address later. As a former BBQ restaurant owner myself, I tend to set the bar pretty high, so I was excited when they opened their new Rehoboth Beach location.

On our most recent visit we started with the Hot Lump Crab Dip. This cheesy concoction sports big pieces of crabmeat along with artichokes and spinach, with lots of little bread slices to preserve the all-important dip-to-dipper ratio. Also try the Chipotle Calamari. It was crispy and nicely spiced (not too hot, but enough to get your attention), with a rich and vinegary dipping sauce. Previous visits also involved "Fiery Pigs on the Wing"--not chicken, but actually pork riblets prepared like Buffalo wings. Wonderfully (spicy) hot with lots of meat.

I believe that pulled/chopped meats and ribs define just how "authentic" a BBQ restaurant actually is. Recently, I got the BBQ pork two ways: the "pulled" version, and their "Carolina" version. [A quick tutorial: "Pulled pork" is pulled off the bone in chunks by hand (usually from a smoked pork shoulder/"Boston Butt"). You apply your own toppings, including slaw and, (if it's "Memphis Style") a tomato-based BBQ sauce. "Carolina style" is most often chopped and served with a simple vinegar and pepper sauce ("Western Carolina style") or a vinegar/mustard/pepper sauce (technically "Eastern Carolina style"). With so many regional styles, these are only guidelines, of course.]

Their pulled pork was good. No fat, no gristle (obviously expertly pulled). Next time I'm going to ask if they can give me more "burnt ends" (the outside of the shoulder that is usually charred and VERY flavorful). I really like the hickory smoke taste that tends to be strongest toward the outside of the shoulder. I piled on their delicious (regular) cole slaw and went at it. The Carolina style is already sauced, and the all-important vinegar is combined with what appears to be a tomato base. Though unusual and not traditional for "Carolina" style, it was lean and brightly spiced, to say the least.

When ribs are smoked, they require a quick sear over an open flame to develop a dark, crispy crust. I'd like to see Bethany Blues' ribs with more of this crispy crust. That could be a personal preference, and I must say that the ribs at Bethany Blues are well-smoked, tender and flavorful. They offer two cuts: The "St. Louis" cut ("Memphis style") and the smaller "Baby Back" ribs (no, not from baby pigs; just a standard rack that has been cut to remove the curved end of the bones). Though St. Louis cuts tend to be fattier (read: more juicy and flavorful), Bethany Blues' version had a lot of meat and actually not as much fat as I expected. The Baby Backs were smaller, of course, and in fact had more of that flavorful seared "crust" that I referred to above.

For the most part, the sides are good at Bethany Blues. The mac & cheese (though a bit mild for my taste) was creamy and thoroughly cheesy. The creamed corn was met with total approval (I think it might be made fresh right there), as were the beans and the baked apples. Note that the Sesame Ginger Slaw is definitely an acquired taste, and I personally would not get it again. Also, I wonder why some of the sides and entrees came out of the kitchen lukewarm? I am not the only person to notice this trend at Bethany Blues (see your comments below).
One of our dining companions (who also happened to be the "birthday girl"), had the Blues Bacon Cheddar Burger. It was nicely grilled with the melted cheese holding firmly onto the apple wood bacon. My other dining companion had the pulled chicken. It was well prepared (more shredded than pulled, but that's the way it is with chicken) and pleasantly smokey. The big test was passed: no bones, gristle or fat chunks. Hopefully that's the way it is all the time.

Note the Hickman's Meat Market on the premises! The night we went was the steak special night, where you trek back to the meat market and pick out your own personal cut. I just can't imagine how that could be a bad thing. If you have the steak, tell us below how you liked it.

The service was great, and they fell all over themselves to make sure our birthday girl was properly treated to a piece of what they called pumpkin cake. Kind of like a big square of pumpkin cheesecake, it is made on the premises and is a shining star. Imagine a moist, cakey pumpkin pie kicked up a notch.

UPDATE: Tonight I dined there with a party of 7 and we shared the Chipotle Calamari (surprisingly crispy and firm--I'd order it again) and both kinds of wings (the Buffalo Red Wings are quite spicy, with the expected "Buffalo" flavor. The unexpected star of the show was the Jack Daniels Wings, sauced with a very sticky but flavorful molasses-based sauce infused with the flavor of Jack Daniels Whiskey. The table was covered in orders of Greens, Mac 'n' Cheese and Parmesan Grits. I couldn't get anybody to say anything negative. (Possibly due to the pork-induced stupor for which BBQ is so popular and well-known!)

Bethany Blues is on the east side of Ocean Highway (18385 Coastal Highway), past the Midway Outlets and just before the turn-off toward the Cape May/Lewes Ferry. It's huge, with all sorts of nook and cranny dining rooms and a huge bar. A fun place to be on a cold and rainy Rehoboth night. Though they seem to be open all the time, give 'em a call just to make sure (302) 644-2500. (L, D, Bar) Price range: Moderate.