Rehoboth Foodie

Kindle's original location was spacious, dramatic...and way too far from Rehoboth Beach. People found it too long a trip, especially considering that one might imbibe while there. Kindle's new space in downtown Lewes (formerly "Books By the Bay") is smaller (and noisier) than the original Paynter's Mill installation. But Matt and Ali di Sabatino and partners Ian Crandall and Joanna Goode have managed to preserve the dimly lit "bistro" atmosphere that the larger space was amazingly able to pull off.

Kindle is part of the di Sabatino's trinity of Lewes eateries (joining Striper Bites and Half Full, all 3 within waddling distance of one another). Though I was a "regular" at the Paynter's Mill location, I dined at the Lewes installation several times before writing this--just to make sure. Interestingly, one of the negative things that both this and the old location share are occasional long waits between courses--even when the restaurant is not crowded. More about that later.

Gotta start with the Fire Fries. They're seasoned fries served in a clever little spiral cone (I did the same thing in my restaurant back in the '90s, thank you). The dip goes nicely with the crisp potatoes. There are two starters that are the stars of the show. My favorite is the Kindle House Salad (radish quarters, baby greens, cranberries, and lightly toasted almonds in a tart champagne vinaigrette dressing). I could order three and call it a night. (Yeah, right.)

The other salad that I've had many times is the Roasted Beet and Goat Cheese Salad. Unfortunately, they no longer include the lightly coated and toasted goat cheese medallion. Instead, the cheese is crumbled onto the salad. I miss the little warm medallion, but the tang of the chevre is a nice counter to the sherry vinaigrette. I did miss the "flatbread" appetizers (read: little rectangular pizzas) that they had in Paynter's Mill, but maybe they'll reappear on future incarnations. Please add your comments below, especially if you've had some of the appetizers not mentioned here.

One of my favorite entrees is the Spiced Roast Chicken. Yes, it's just chicken, but before you click away in a huff, give it a try. The paprika-spiked honey glaze on the crispy, dark brown skin is not to be missed. The chicken quarter is moist and is accompanied by their gruyere Mac & Cheese and "baby" greens. Dining companions enjoyed the Braised Lamb Shank (I had it last week, too). It's honest-to-goodness fallin' off the bone, and a nice big one at that. (Would've hated to meet up with that lamb in a dark alley.) Glazed with a red wine/sage mixture, it sits perkily atop a bed of Barley Risotto paired with roasted garlic and still-firm root vegetables. If you like lamb, you'll not be disappointed.

Others at the table ordered the Pan Roasted Filet Mignon with a mushroom demi-glace and a medley of veggies including arugula, red potatoes and asparagus. It was as tender and meaty as the lamb shank. (They offer a "Princess Cut" for those who consider themselves to be Princesses.) 'Nuf said. The crab cake is all lump, and served with hushpuppies and a slightly smaller version of the House Salad. Though the hushpuppies were reported to be a little dry (she ate them all, by the way), the crab cake disappeared with nary a whimper.

The sharp cheddar and the thick-cut, smokey bacon on the Kindle Burger both hold their own against the char-grilled beef. I know I whine about rolls and bread, and I must first assure you that the brioche bun was fresh and delicious. But brioche buns are quite firm (take challah and click it up one firmness notch). The bun makes it hard to consume this burger in any other way than the knife-and-fork method. Maybe that's the intention (in the past I've made quite a spectacle of myself trying to eat it by hand), but I think a hamburger bun should be more a part of the sandwich rather than a yeasty pedestal upon which the meat is displayed. That being said, I still order the burger regularly.

Order the Gruyere Mac & Cheese as a side. It comes in a fairly small ramekin, but, trust me, it's quite satisfying. Stab anyone with your fork who tries to steal any. No court in the land will convict you.

Kindle is in the middle of it all at 111 Bank Street. Though the food has been consistently good, I don't suggest going if you're in a hurry. Every so often, service comes to an unexplainable halt between courses. Last time we were there there was a 25 minute wait between the salads and the mains. The time before that, everything went like clockwork. What's up with that?

UPDATE: Here we go again: What is it with these people? I was at Kindle last week and my party of 4 sat for 35 minutes waiting for our main courses after the salads/apps were removed from the table. No explanation from the server except the obligatory "your dinners will be out shortly" (sorry, not enough, my dear). The place was only about 3/4 full. Ratings have been adjusted accordingly.

YET ANOTHER UPDATE: We have attended Kindle twice since I rewrote the above review, and on the last two visits, our service was fine. We went on "burger night," so of course I had the burger [pictured, above left]. It was delicious, but I have the same gripe I've always had about Kindle's burgers (still included in the review above): The roll, though perfectly fresh and tasty, is simply too firm and tall. The all-important roll/meat ratio is off. If you push the roll down to make a biteable bite, toppings squeeze out. The roll needs to be softer so it cradles the tasty patty and toppings rather than just perching atop of it all, unyielding and recalcitrant. By the way, I subbed broccolini for the fries. I have to tell you it was perfectly cooked. I love it crispy but not woody, and it was just that, with a buttery hint and just a bit of salty spice. It even looks good in the picture, doesn't it? Another of our party had the mustard-encrusted codfish [pictured, above right] and she loved it.

Parking can be a challange, but everyone parks in the bank lot across the street (after hours) and there doesn't seem to be any problem. In the summer you can dine al fresco on a little bar arrangement on the front porch while sipping, nibbling and quietly commenting on the passersby. Kindle suggests you "Eat, Drink, Glow." You can do all three, inside and out (weather permitting).

One of the good things to come from their downsizing is that they now take reservations. Give 'em a call at 302-645-7887. If Peter answers, know that he is rather circumspect and all business, but also very accommodating. Click here to see Kindle's dinner menu. (L. in season only, D., Bar) Price range: Expensive -.

THE BEER GEEK

Their beer menu is short, yet substantial. 2 taps and 10 bottles, but a great selection. Here's a few of my favorites....

(Note: These three beers were all bottle/can selections)

Caldera IPA- Great West Coast IPA (India Pale Ale)! Super hoppy, with a lot of pine and some nice citrus notes. A lot of bitterness for you hopheads, but it's balanced nicely with the malt.

Allagash Dubbel- A nice Dubbel from this Maine brewery, pours a dark, milky amber color, with a lot of sweet maltiness and fruits in the nose. A lot of malt in the taste with some dried fruits and spice. I thought that it went well with the Chocolate torte for dessert.

La Fin Du Monde- A very highly rated Trippel with lots of sweet, citrusy notes in the nose. That sweetness isn't quite as prevalent upon tasting this straw colored brew but, a light malt flavor comes forward.  This is by far, one of the best Tripels available today.

Kindle also has the local Evolution Craft Brewing's Exile  ESB (Extra Special/Strong Bitter) in bottles, along with Dogfish Head's 60 Minute IPA on tap.

As a side note, in my most recent visit to Kindle they had Dogfish's newest limited release, Hellhound On My Ale, on tap.  This is a bold Double/Imperial IPA that was brewed with lemons. Lots of assertive hops with a touch of lemon, and a good malt backbone to add some body.  Definitely a must try, but don't expect it to last long on tap.