Rehoboth Foodie

It's all about the pizza at Mr. P's. Not that everything else isn't alright, but the pies definitely stand out as what to get. I go back and forth between the San Giorgio (Italian sausage and pepperoni) and the Alla Puttanesca with Goat Cheese (artichokes, capers, black olives, garlic and chevre).

On my first visit under the new ownership, Mr. P's pizza reminded me of a pizza joint I used to frequent in Bethesda, MD as a young Foodie-in-Waiting. I am not making this up: Turns out that Rick Thomas (owner/operator of Mr. P's, along with his brother Ray) was a partner at Il Forno Pizzeria--the very same place where this (now fully-formed) Foodie happily munched many years ago. Il Forno means "oven," and at Mr. P's, it's the handmade Italian Ambrogi wood-burning oven that makes it all happen. There's nothing like the texture and taste imparted by the intense heat of glowing hardwood. The homemade dough puffs up to a satisfying crunch and "pull" with a yeasty flavor that stands up to the toppings. They offer a large selection of pizzas and calzones (21--count 'em)--all baked in that imported oven.

UPDATE! My latest visits have allowed me to zero-in on my favorite pizza at Mr. P's. Double pepperoni and Italian sausage! [pictured, right. Look at that crust!] I still change things up, but right now that's my favorite. It may be tempting to ask for it "well done," but don't. It has been perfectly crunchy every time so far. I assume this is the same sausage they use in their entrees (see below), but on the pizza it is terrific. I suspect because it's well-done and a little crunchy due to that hot fire. Nothing like some nice wood to keep you smiling!

Unlike the pizza, however, the pasta dishes are pretty ordinary. Several members of our party ordered the spaghetti. They didn't hate it, but they wished for more "personality." The same verdict was pronounced on the Baked Pasta (touted as their "signature dish"). The marinara is OK, but the dish just comes off as bland. The ground Italian sausage in the sauce could just have easily been ground beef. C'mon, guys...kick it up a bit! We know you can do it!

Other than the pizza, there are, in fact, a couple of shining stars that do stand out at Mr. P's. The first is the Italian Wedding Soup. It is flavorful, not too salty, and filled with lots of little meatballs and bright green spinach. The other little secret is the Garlic Bread, made from their pizza dough, baked under the heat of that wood, and drizzled with olive oil and topped with garlic and cheese. Simple and straight-ahead. It might as well be their pizza. No wonder it's so good. I suspect that any Italian-style sub (like the Pizza Steak or Cheese Melt) would be good too, because they all get crisped-up in that oven where the pizzas get their crunchy, woody flavor.

I said it before and I'll say it again: It's all about the pizza at Mr. P's. If you must have a pasta dish, at least order it with the Italian Wedding Soup and a chunk of Garlic Bread. The service is friendly and accommodating, and by the way...they do serve slices during the day. Mr. P's is located in Town & Country Square, a little strip center at 1004 Kings Highway (on the left as you drive towards the Cape May/Lewes Ferry terminal).

They don't have a bar, but they do serve beer and wine, and they DO NOT take credit cards, however, they will happily refund the machine fee when you do a cash advance on their on-premises machine (if your check is at least $20). Check their hours in the off-season (302) 645-1900. Mr. P's doesn't have an online menu. (L., D.) Price range: Moderate -.