Rehoboth Foodie

Long-time Millsboro residents David and Cristina Jones went all-out when they fitted up the old Delaware Trust bank building on the corner at 303 Main St. From the original pressed tin ceiling to the rustic brick around the old bank vault (still there, containing a 4-top as the "chef's table"), to the old-timey faux-finish on the walls, to the gigantic vault door, it's obvious that somebody was watching out for the details. They even have teeny little track lights behind the wall trim (like chair molding, but a little higher and lit up). The whole place is bathed in a soft sepia glow that simply can't help but put you in the mood for a leisurely dinner and maybe even a Prohibition-era cocktail.

Joe Churchman, the original head chef, has moved on. However, Chef Theo Lipkins has taken over the kitchen, and word on the street is that things are just as good as they ever were. The commentary that follows was based on Luca's early days with Joe. We will follow up soon with an update on Chef Theo's efforts.

On our first visit, we started with the Antipasto, which earns an A+ for presentation. It's served on a little distressed wooden plank perched about 5 inches above the table on four metal legs. The only other place I've seen this little goodie is Two Urban Licks in Atlanta, GA. (Check out Foodie on the Road.) The Antipasto sported what appeared to be a couple of slices of sopressata (a soft, peppery salami), some rosy pink prosciutto, a couple of different cheeses, pepperoncini (Italian/Greek mild peppers), pickled red onions, olives and a couple of caper berries (they look like olives with stems, but taste like capers).

We also ordered the Polpettes (meatballs). They are simply delicious. The combination of olives and ground pork imparted an almost minty softness (but not too soft, mind you) enhanced by a slightly chunky marinara. At the risk of triggering an avalanche of "You like everything!" emails from the Chronic Complainers, you simply have to try them. The Capesante Scottate, aka Seared Scallops, are a close runner-up to the Polpettes. The burnt sienna hue of the olive oil (a bit of saffron does it) contrasted deliciously with the little bed of pureed parsnip onto which the scallops were nestled. And it also went very nicely with the color of the walls. See? And you threw out all your burnt sienna Crayolas!

Over the course of our visits, we ordered from the "Primi" part of the menu (pasta main dishes) and also from the "Secondi" (mains containing meat and fish). In the Primi department, the Linguini alla Carbonara stole the show. Homemade pasta entwined tiny cubes of Pancetta (Italian bacon) that were fried to a dark and salty crispness. The dish arrived with a warm, sunny egg yolk peeking out from the center of its nest of linguini. Shaved Peccorino Romano (a hard Italian cheese from sheep's milk) topped it all off. Again, I tried so hard to find something wrong with this dish, but I just couldn't. We also ordered the Gnocchi (officially called Gnocchetti al Gorgonzola there in Millsboro). The Piccolini nuggets were bathed in aromatic Gorgonzola and topped with that light marinara, leaving room for the taste of the potato to shine through.

On our last visit I tried a pizza appetizer special. It was topped with shaved New York Strip steak and mushroom confit (mushrooms and savory spices are slow-cooked in olive oil 'til soft). The homemade dough had a moderate gluteny "pull," but was still light, toasty-on-the-bottom and delightfully puffy. Obviously they have a wood-fired oven back there (I tasted oak and I was right). I asked them for "sprinkle cheese," expecting to get a cute little ramekin of Kraft Grated Parmesan, but I was impressed when thin-as-air shavings of aged Parmesan appeared instead. Nice touch.

I ordererd the Porchetta from the Secondi side of the menu. Four or five darkly seared medallions of pork loin, each about 3/4" thick, were so tender I quite literally cut them with the side of my fork. The slightly sweet bite of roasted fennel against what appeared to be roasted garlic and rosemary were rolled and layered in little Italian "pinwheels" of juicy pork. "In-season roasted roots" consisted of teeny grilled onions and buttery fingerling potatoes, each of which tasted like miniature "loaded" bakers. We also had the Duck Confit. The menu said Risotto, but the dish appeared with homemade Tagliatelle (think of linguini, but wider). The strips of homemade pasta were perfectly chewy, forming a tasty cushion for the duck leg, mushrooms and light, cheesy broth. On another visit, we tried the Agnello (lamb). Darkly seared (but still softly pink in the middle) chops were accompanied by grilled discs of polenta and the happy "roasted roots."

I usually don't make a big deal about desserts, but I wanted to tell you about the star of the show: the Rum Cake. Just go there and get it. You won't be sorry. On the other hand, don't bother with the cannoli. They get the shells from the boys at Touch of Italy (a good thing), but they make the filling themselves (a bad thing). I'm sorry to say that the filling was disappointingly thin and thoroughly devoid of taste. I would have preferred the commercial filling sold by Vaccaro's in Baltimore.

There are two huge old-time portraits peering sternly into the room. Our strikingly cute and terminally bubbly waitress (she used to be a dancer in Latvia) identified them as David's grandfather Luca and grandmother Carmela. Another nice touch.

Y'know, dining--especially fine-dining--should engage every one of the senses. Aromas, lighting, attitude, music, color -- even the temperature of the room -- are all a bigger part of the experience than many people suspect. Obviously a lot of money and time has been poured into this diminutive spot, and I wondered if the food could live up to the ambitious physical plant. Well, at this point, they are doing a great job. I hope it continues.

There aren't many tables in there, so I strongly suggest reservations, even on weeknights (302) 934-5822. Call for their off-season hours. Y'never know.

They offer a nice selection of wines-by-the-glass and are proud of their enoteca equipment which keeps the partially-used bottles fresh. (D., Bar) Click here for a look at the dinner menu. Price range: Moderate +.