Rehoboth Foodie

The Miltonian Pizzeria & Wing House is the proud winner of Delaware Today Magazine's 2010 "Reader's Choice" of best restaurant in Milton, DE, so of course I had to trek northward to check the place out. Their motto is "Keeping it simple, Making it Special," and after several visits I can say that, given the very reasonable prices, the motto is true-- in most cases. There are some exceptions. Read on.

We started with the wings; properly crispy and slathered in "Kamikaze" sauce. It's homemade, with some interesting and unusual spices (tarragon is one of them), and it's supposed to be blazing hot. But it's not all that hot. During one of my fact-checking calls I jokingly mentioned that to Manny Diakilos, the very friendly owner, and he told me that they are happy to triple or quadruple the heat on request. He told me he challenged a customer (who also whined about the mildish sauce) to try his most fiery concoction. If he couldn't take it, he would be required to tattoo the restaurant's name and logo on his body. Lo and behold, even as we speak, there is a guy walking around Milton with a "Just Wing It" buffalo and the word "Miltonian" emblazoned across his back.  Wow...I'm ordering some of that stuff next time. We also ordered the Jalapeno Hotties--the basic frozen Jalapeno Popper. They were nicely fried, and were served with a thin and almost tasteless salsa.

If placed end-to-end, the Gyro (pronounced "year-oh") sandwiches consumed over the years by The Foodie would stretch out for many (many) miles. I assumed that the thing to order at the Greek-owned Miltonian would be the Gyro sandwich, but, alas, I assumed wrong. Instead of moist and slightly charred slices of gyro meat (usually spiced beef and lamb, cooked rotisserie-style) folded into a warm and yielding pita, I received an almost tasteless slice of meat in tepid pita bread. The tzatziki sauce (a yogurt-based sauce usually flavored with cucumber, mint, garlic, salt and sometimes even red wine vinegar) had way too much garlic, masking whatever other ingredients there might have been. After driving all the way out there, I was really hoping it would be good. If I believed in little pouting emoticons (I hate them) I'd insert one here.

I should have taken the advice of the other people at the table (all residents of Milton) and ordered one of the Italian entrees. Gadzooks! This is where The Miltonian shines! The Italian dishes are quite good and extremely generous, especially considering the $9-$13 price point. The Lasagne [pictured left] was presented steaming hot, packed with meat and ricotta cheese and topped with a hot and bubbly layer of cheeses. I selflessly helped my dining companion finish it. The Baked Ziti Parmesan [pictured, right, below] was also finished under a flame, imparting a slightly burned crust to the exposed ziti while encouraging the mozzarella to ooze cheesily down into the dish. The pasta was delightfully al dente (even at the bottom of the bowl), and the meat sauce was chunky and nicely spiced. Over the last couple of visits we've enjoyed the Stuffed Shells, the Manicotti (stuffed with mozzarella, ricotta and parmesan), the "Cheese Louise" Stromboli and the "Special Delivery" Calzone. The pizza at Miltonian has a thick, almost Chicago-like crust. I would have preferred more toppings (we got "The Works" and were left wanting in the meat dept.). I also want to try the White Pizza. There was one with pepperoni on a neighboring table, but they simply would not look away long enough for me to snag a slice with my handy telescoping fork. For those who prefer a thinner pizza crust, try the Stromboli (sauce inside) or the Calzone (sauce on top). They're basically "pizza turnovers."

Manny is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and his homemade baklava is the stuff of legend. The filo was crackly and honey-sweet with a nutty filling. My mother made baklava every Christmas for years, and Manny's brought back memories.

The menu is huge, so if you go, please post your thoughts below on the hamburgers, club sandwiches, fried chicken, etc., etc., etc. Inquiring foodies need to know! The Miltonian Pizzeria & Wing House is located at 618 Mulberry St. in the Clipper Square Plaza at Rt. 16. Be sure to call (302) 684-1111 in the off-season (just in case). The restaurant has no online menu available. (L., D.) Price range: Inexpensive.