Rehoboth Foodie

Wherever there is melted cheese, shredded and spicy chicken (or pork...or beef), chili, chunky salsa and any sort of tortilla, you can be sure the Rehoboth Foodie will be nearby. (It's no secret that The Foodie needs to get a life.) That notwithstanding, some restaurants do manage to elevate the humble Tex-Mex cuisine to new heights. How? Simple: By paying extra attention to fresh ingredients and careful preparation. Though La Hacienda in Ocean City, MD used to do a great job with those very things, recent visits have proven to be disappointing.

Before moving north to the bustling metropolis of Rehoboth, I was a "regular" at La Hacienda. Every dish was generously portioned, perfectly prepared and tasted--and looked--delicious. Some items still fall into that category. The salsa is quite good, and their corn chips are always warm and crunchy. I suspect they make them in-house. I also really like their Chili con Queso. It's served in two sizes, one for a normal party of 4 or so, and then there is the $16.95 version which they pretty much wheel out on a handcart. It'll easily keep a party of 8-10 cheesy and happy. I also enjoy their nachos, covered in that good queso and topped with guacamole and sour cream. The toppings are a nice little "value added."

Where they have fallen down in recent visits has been with the Tex-Mex entrees. What used to be a huge chicken burrito lovingly swaddled in a warm, soft tortilla and surrounded with moist and savory frijoles refritos and rice has become a noticeably smaller portion with a crackly, dried-out tortilla surrounding the chicken, flanked by dessicated beans and rice. The Mexican food at La Hacienda has always had certain taste that I really liked--probably a particular brand of chili powder or combination of spices--and, interestingly enough, that taste is still there! But the lackluster presentation (not to mention the reduced portion size) makes it hard to justify the drive to Ocean City. On our last visit, one member of our party ordered the Taco Salad, and she loved it. Another ordered the Neptune Burrito, a behemoth of a burrito tightly packed with all kinds of seafood. (NOTE: When anything has the words "Market Price" printed next to it on the menu, it BETTER be good!) Sadly, the tortilla was also dried out, though the dish did look like the same size it always was.

On a previous visit, two of our little group had the fajitas (one steak, one chicken), and they were definitely reminiscent of what used to be. Hot, sizzling and surrounded by all kinds of goodies. Others had the Pueblo Combo (a two-enclilada combo) and the Casa Grande Combo (burrito, taco and a nice dish of that good queso). Both diners commented independently that the dishes had been downsized. So what is it with these Tex-Mex things? I have NEVER been one to complain about price in exchange for good value, but cutting the portion size for a burrito that already carries a tariff of $18.25 is no way to keep the regulars coming back. Yeah, you'll get the bar flies and the vacationers who are leaving at the end of the week anyway, but that's not going to support you on a cold winter's weekend.

I do like some of the OC eateries, and often drag friends (kicking and screaming) with me on pilgrimages to the southern feeding grounds. La Hacienda used to be one of our "go to" places because the food, though not cheap, was always great. If my last few visits are any indication, I'm sad to say that their generous portions and attention to presentation have both faltered. Though the service at La Hacienda has always been very friendy and attentive, I'll take the food at Rehoboth's Tonalteca, Dos Locos or Mariachi any time, thank you.

La Hacienda is in a small strip center on the bay side of Coastal Highway at 80th Street. They are not open every day in the off-season, so be sure to call them at 410-524-8080 before making the trip. If you find yourself there, please post a comment below if you agree or disagree with my commentary. (L. (not off-season), D., Bar) Price range: Expensive -.