Rehoboth Foodie

There is a possibility this establishment has closed. We are waiting for more information. Be sure to call before you go so you don't waste a trip.

As a musician and a lover of jazz, I hope that Atlantic Jazz Yard doesn't end up just another one of the ill-fated eateries to parade through that location on Wilmington Avenue. On the bright side, if the weeknight crowd during our last visit was any indication, then the evil curse that befell Yum Yum ("pan-Asian bistro?" Really?) and the bad-review magnet Shag, has indeed lifted.

This is the third installation for co-owners Matt Scheller and Matt and Colleen Swartz, who also own places in Allentown and Bethlehem, PA. I arrived early and plopped at the bar. I was fortunate to spend some time talking to Chef Patrick DiLullo (of course, I never disclose my reason for being there) while I watched the bar manager train a new bartender. He was being schooled in the creation of (in their words), "Prohibition Era Cocktails from a Time Long Ago When a True Libation was Paramount." I witnessed the mixology behind the "Tivoli" (muddled basil, Plymouth Gin, Honey Syrup, St. Germaine, a dash of Angostura and freshly squeezed lime), and the "Sazerac" (Sazerac rye, Peychauds bitters and a little sugar are decanted into an Absinthe-rinsed glass and crowned with a lemon twist). Even the ice cubes are unusual: Drinks are served "on the rock"--cooled by a single block of ice shaped like a stick of butter. Ahh! Memories of tending bar at one of my former restaurants came flooding back, when my loyal bar crowd unanimously voted me "World's Worst Bartender." (And they meant it--in spite of my 6 years of college chemistry. Go figure.)

I plan to work my way through all of their "Classic Libations."

It's fun to sit in the outdoor courtyard and listen to their house band, the Tap Room Trio. These three young guys expertly crank out extended renditions of jazz standards on electronic keyboard (sounding reminiscent of the classic Hammond B-3 organ), a well-tuned (in spite of the weather) hollow-body electric guitar, and drums. OK, you didn't come here for a music review, so let's get started.

The star of the appetizer show has to be the Brie Grilled Cheese, presented "club" style with four darkly toasted triangles. The milky, triple Creme de Bourgogne is joined by a juicy grape compote, a mildly savory bacon spread plays an intriguing counterpoint. We ordered a second one. 'Nuff said?

Fried Oysters are one of my benchmarks for a restaurant's technical expertise. Though the coating was flavorful, and the fruity aioli dip laced with Floris Framboise was a nice touch, the oysters were pale and slightly underdone, leaving the otherwise well-prepared coating soft and bready. Leave 'em in a little longer, Patrick! We don't mind waiting another couple of minutes 'til they're golden brown and crunchy.

The Tri Color Salad was fresh and rife with cranberries, radicchio, onion, arugula, frisee and thinly shaved (almost crystalline) Grana. The Sherry Vinaigrette dressing was bracingly tart and could almost have been "too much" if it hadn't imparted such a delicious aroma to the dish. The creamy softness of the arugula and the bitter frisee made it a wake-up call for your mouth if there ever was one. The White Asparagus appetizer sported little chunks of hard-boiled egg, slightly sweet Guanciale (a type of bacon made from pork cheeks) and parsley. The slightly sulfuric symphony of sensations synced seamlessly with the asparagus (sorry, I couldn't resist). The Atlantic Yard Frites were presented in a spiral "cone," the same way I used to serve them at my former BBQ place. Shiny with truffle oil-infused parmesan and garlic, they were almost too easy to eat. The Watermelon Tomato Salad (cold, minty and lemony on a warm summer evening) was finished with a splash of sparkling Prosecco.

Everybody's doing "flatbread" nowadays. Apparently this is the new politically correct term for "pizza" so people don't have to feel like they're actually eating pizza--even though they are. Really, don't we already have enough of that sort of thinking coming out of Washington, D.C.? Political implications aside, one thing has to be made perfectly clear: These flatbreads are grilled--not baked. Do not expect the same consistency as your favorite round pizza from Rehoboth Avenue. They are thin and crisp as crackers, and Atlantic Jazz Yard's version of this Brooklyn favorite is delicious. The crackly crust is crowned with just enough toppings for taste, but not enough to soak the bread. We had the one with sausage, mozzarella, egg(!) and guanciale, and when we were done, sobbed quietly at the spectre of the empty plate.

One of the kicker mains is the Squid Ink Fettucini surrounded by bright red crayfish. The shiny blackness of the pasta tasted ever-so-slightly reminiscent of the ocean, while spicy Chorizo broth provided a spicy note. This is a very clever combination of tastes. The Kobe Burger wore a cute little cap of Cheddar and was laced with Bacon Jam (who wooda thought?) plus the standard burger stuff. Regulars here at RehobothFoodie know how I whine about rolls and bread. The roll that enclosed the burger looked like a brioche, but was soft enough to absorb the juices and not squirt toppings onto the diner sitting across from you. On one occasion I had the lobster roll. In a word, local restauranteurs apparently don't know the difference between a split-top, buttered and grilled roll, and a sub roll. (In the unlikely event you're interested in my rant about the authenticity of Rehoboth Beach lobster rolls, take a look at the reviews of Fins and Henlopen City Oyster House.) That being said, the lobster salad itself was deliciously spiced and packed with lobster meat.

The Grilled Clam/Grilled Corn combo sported caramelized grilled corn on the cob and smokey clams (in the shell) splashed with a tasty sauce of white wine, garlic, chives and butter. A warm baguette served as the perfect sopping device. The Petit Filet arrived perfectly cooked (graced with roasted potatoes, onion, and a dark demi-glace that hinted of terragon). As expected, the Filet was more tender than the Bistro Grilled Flank Steak (they are two very different cuts of beef), but the Flank Steak certainly held its own, served steakhouse style with a Tomato Salad and those truffley fries...oops, I mean frites.

Atlantic Jazz Yard is located at 37 Wilmington Avenue, just west of First St. on the north side. When you enter the place, a warren of steps, nooks and crannies leads to the back of the building which opens up onto a spacious multi-level outdoor courtyard. The bar is on the other side and has a few tables in there to escape the weather. Atlantic Jazz Yard is open in season from 5pm 'til 1am 7 days. I am sure this will not be the case in the off-season (since the great majority of their seating area is weather-dependent) so be sure to call first (302)-227-6869. They take reservations. An hour before the band stops playing, they switch to an "After-Hours Dessert" menu served from 10pm to 1am that looks tasty. Have you tried it? Please post your thoughts below. (By the way, for whose of you who might have noticed, the "n/a" noise rating is because the courtyard doesn't have a roof, so there is no appreciable reflected sound.) (D., Bar) Price Range: Moderate +.