Rehoboth Foodie

It was a dark and chilly Christmas Eve in 2009. At Midway Shopping Center, "For Rent" signs were hung in the windows with care (in hopes that Matt Haley would soon be there). Out in the parking lot, he huddled in the warmth of his car (or was it a sleigh?) with his trusty lawyer and rental agent. Leases were signed. Checks and handshakes were exchanged. Then, as quickly as it started, it was over. Matt drove off into the yuletide darkness, knowing that Betty's Pure & Simple would soon be there. (A true story, by the way, with apologies to Clement Clarke Moore.)

There's a lot of Rehoboth Beach restaurant history in that location. The former inhabitants always seemed kind of shadowy and crowded. Dark wallpaper, dark carpets, heavy pictures hanging everywhere---and a wall blocking the front windows--will do that. Imagine Patsy's in New York City, minus the ghost of Frank Sinatra.

Matt Haley has changed all that. For starters, that nasty wall is gone. Sunlight now reflects off of the tastefully decorated walls. The ceiling was always visually interesting, if not a bit ominous--it's now painted a benign, non-threatening white. Matt preserved the multi-level seating and the unique dining table-height bar where, instead of climbing up onto barstools, patrons are ensconced in cushy club chairs. As a value-added, said patrons also have a shorter distance to fall in the event of a cocktail-induced encounter with gravity.

Betty's is full of surprises. Menu items that sound familiar arrive at your table with little culinary twists and turns. Case in point: The warm, salty pretzel bread with mustard-laced butter (did Matt steal this idea from Maloney & Porcelli on E. 50th St. in NYC, or did they steal it from him? I'm sure neither will 'fess up. That notwithstanding, read on:

Start with the Kettle Chips with Blue Cheese dip. I tend to be critical of places that make their own chips because of the attention required to keep them from clumping into little gluey globs. These chips are delicious, dark and crunchy, and add some dimension to the otherwise ordinary dip. The Home Style Deviled Eggs sport a creamy mix of celery and radish with a hint of mustard, bringing back memories of mom's deviled eggs (assuming, of course, that mom even made deviled eggs---work with me here...).

The Chicken and Rice Soup is hearty without being floury and thick, and it's loaded with firm vegetables. Now, on the other hand, you would expect the Smokey Chili to be thick--and you would be wrong. The consistency is that of a light beef stew, with tender chunks of pot roast floating amongst the vegetables topped with cheddar and scallions. It's satisfying and not too filling. The Spinach Salad is kicked up with raisins, apples and walnuts, blending well with the warm bacon dressing.  My vote for the appetizer "star of the show" goes to the Braised Beef Sloppy Joe Sliders. Everybody I have kidnapped and dragged in there loves them. Shredded beef is spiced, sauced, mixed with bits of veggies and overflows onto three tiny little sandwich rolls. I got two orders of these on one of my visits, and sadly, the waiter remembered me next time because of it. A dubious distinction, but a distinction nonetheless. <<<sigh>>>

I have to tell you about the BLT Romaine Wedge. Not a "wedge" at all, it's actually a romaine stalk sliced in half lengthwise. The menu says it's slathered with ranch dressing, but they changed that (mercifully) to a pleasantly acidic tomato vinaigrette. (Let's face it: Ranch has been done.) The rosy vinaigrette plays well with the pickled onions, cornishons (teeny weeny pickles), bacon and egg. (This is not the first time I've seen Romaine served like this in Rehoboth Beach.) Also try the crispy stalks of asparagus drizzled with all sorts of lemon stuff. It's a very generous portion for 7 bucks. You'll remember it the next morning, I promise.

Burgers, dogs, and comfort food. Oh my! It's a toss-up for my favorite entree, with both the Fried Chicken on Waffles (lightly breaded breast tenders on warm waffles with a creamy ham gravy), and the Chicago Style Cheese Dog (a plump, hickory smoked all-beef dog covered in all sorts of goodies) both vying for the top position. For you, dear reader, I will continue unselfishly ordering these items until I figure out which I like best.

The Open-Faced Hot Roast Beef Sandwich is a lot less messy than you would expect. Lean and tender slices are served over a chunk of yeasty bread, then crowned with a savory Mushroom Veal gravy. Mashers on the side, of course. The Braised Beef Short Rib Stroganoff bears some explanation, as it's probably not the Stroganoff you will be expecting. At Betty's, the noodles are lightly infused with a creamy mushroom gravy and demi glace with a couple of generous chunks of braised beef perched atop the noodles. In spite of my badgering for negative comments, everybody has thoroughly enjoyed it. And don't overlook the Betty Mac Double Cheeseburger. Complete with the sesame seed roll, shredded lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and "secret" sauce, it's everything you secretly wish a Big Mac actually was. On our last visit, a couple of Foodie friends had the Baked Flounder (swimming in a lemony broth and surrounded by little pearl onions and peas) and the Shrimp and Spaghetti (in lemon and butter, sprinkled with fresh herbs and chili peppers). Their plates were shiny and clean when the feeding frenzy subsided.

Betty's Pure and Simple is on the right end of the Midway Shopping Center at 18585 Coastal Highway, directly across from the Tanger Midway Outlets and near the Go-Carts. Specials vary from night to night, and it bears a phone call to check out what's cookin'. As of mid-July they are also open for lunch. (302) 645-6160. (L. (noon-4), D., Bar) Price range: Moderate.