Rehoboth Foodie

36 years! Owner and chef Doris Lynch must be doing something right. Walking into the Captain's Table is like walking into a time machine--or pretty much any old-time Baltimore restaurant such as the Caton House, Kibby's, the Palmer House, the (late) Hausner's or Pike Lounge. It's all there: The dry-erase board emblazoned with the day's specials, the dark paneling, the captain's-style chairs, and a flickering fire in the fireplace (OK, it's gas, but it's still cozy). The only thing missing (mercifully!) is the fluorescently lit dessert merry-go-round.

The concept is obvious and simple: Well-prepared comfort food at a fair price. Our party of 4 started with the Vegetable Beef soup and a couple of house salads. Again, nothing fancy, but the salads were cool and crispy, and the soup was either homemade or a good fascimile thereof. Both were generously portioned. I got the Fisherman's Platter, a big oval plate piled high with flounder, a crab cake, scallops, shrimp and clams. The various goodies were expertly fried (in other words, not greasy). At least some of the seafood was frozen (like the clams, I'm sure), but it was obviously high-quality product and not dry or freezer-burned. It's also available broiled. I have to mention the hush-puppies. As a BBQ maniac, I'm well-versed in the art and science of hush-puppies. We ordered the appetizer portion and they were delicious. Crunchy, full of corn flavor and totally devoid of grease, I would put them up against any I've had.

The award for "star of the show" was apparently a tie among the other three diners. The lamb chops were well-seared and tender. These were not tiny rib chops; they were full-size, not Frenched, and there were three. The lasagne was also generous, tall and cheesy. I don't usually dwell on price (unless something is ridiculously overpriced), but this was quite a value for $12.95. The broiled rockfish was flaky, firm and obviously fresh. It was perfectly broiled, nutty, buttery and seared to a light golden brown. My friend loved it (and she is not a cheap date).

Other down-home dishes for which Captain's Table is well-known include the homemade Meat Loaf, Oyster Stew, a delicious Oscar-style chicken dish, Chicken and Dumplings and Liver and Onions, In the off-season, Ms. Lynch puts many of these "stick-to-your-ribs" entrees on special (check the Off-Season Specials List for details.

UPDATE! I took the chance of dragging a party of 8 into Captain's Table last night, in spite of their plaintive cries for something more fru-fru and hoity-toity. Well, in short, they loved it. One of the stars of last night's app. show was the hush-puppies (see above, too). Darkly crispy on the outside, moist, slightly oniony and not too dense on the inside--we went through four orders. If you get 'em as an appetizer, ask for them without the powdered sugar. Other appetizers included the deliciously homemade vegetable beef soup (see above), the coconut shrimp (expertly fried, not greasy, loaded with coconut--we went through two orders) and a big hot bowl of steamed littleneck clams with a side of clear-as-glass butter. I think she plans on posting a comment about these, so I will leave the description to her. As for the entrees, two of our party had the Jumbo (sauteed) Sea Scallops. They arrived Norfolk-style, in a casserole dish surrounded by a little sea of clear butter. Both of my picky (!) friends pronounced the plump little mollusks "not-rubbery" and "not mushy." In other words, perfectly cooked. Another diner took the plunge and got the prime rib, which was the size of a small Honda. In an attempt to be dainty, she didn't finish it all, but she loved it. I envy the little sandwiches she's probably making right now--maybe with a little horseradish (<<sigh>>). Others had the Crab Imperial and the Chicken Chesapeake. These timeless entrees not only brought back memories, but were well-prepared, fresh and nicely presented. NOTE: Trust your Foodie and get the Creamed Corn side. They make it from scratch right there and it is sublimely rich and deeply flavorful. If you can apply the Japanese word "Umami" to creamed corn, this is it. Also, cross your fingers that the chef has whomped up his coconut-pineapple cake when you visit. It is cool, creamy and vanilla-y. They make it right there and it disappears fast.

ANOTHER UPDATE! Gadzooks! Apparently (see comment below) the hushpuppies and the creamed corn are not regular menu items. The Foodie had no idea. Please take the kind advice of the gentleman below and call if you are looking to try these two wonderful little niblets.

Now back to our regular programming:

Lunchtime goodies include burgers, chicken, tuna and egg salad sandwiches and platters, plus the obligatory BLTs, club sandwiches, fried seafood sandwiches, cheesesteaks and reubens. The list of sides and appetizers is long and includes clam chowder, chili, beets, three kinds of fries, a tangy homemade cole slaw, onion rings, coconut shrimp and French onion soup.

Captain's Table is on the east side of the "Forgotten Mile," the stretch of Coastal Highway between Dewey Beach and the Rehoboth Canal that by-passes the popular Silver Lake entrance to Rehoboth Beach. Call for reservations, carry out or to check on days/hours, especially off-season, at (302) 227-6203. There's tons of free parking. (L., D., Bar) Price Range: Moderate.