Rehoboth Foodie

Part bar, part disco...(oops...I mean "dance bar"), part live venue, part fine-dining restaurant--Cloud 9 strives to be everything to (most) everybody. They succeed at this in varying degrees. The Foodie remembers when that building on Rehoboth Avenue was painted bright purple, and was occupied by The Palm restaurant (are you ready for this: The Foodie even played piano there!). Even then, the place was a testament to multitasking. Some tell me that the activity and music in the bar area is not conducive to the fine dining "ambiance" (and prices) of the restaurant, but, to tell you the truth, I kind of like the upbeat feel of the place. It IS the beach, after all....

I've eaten at Cloud 9 lots of times (along with many of my trusted Foodettes), so, without further ado, we'll start at the top: The Tempura Lobster Tails could possibly be one of the best appetizers I've had in a very long time. Several dining companions even scarfed up two of the generous orders as their main course. Lightly crispy (and not a bit greasy), these firm (but not rubbery) tails will sometimes arrive partially in the shell, which makes for a dramatic presentation. Yes, you have to work a little harder, but suffering strengthens character.

Another star of the appetizer show was the Calamari. Every time we ordered it (and we ordered it every time) it was deliciously salty and crunchy. Others had the warm Spinach Salad (with fun stuff like roasted beets, cherries, bacon, chevre...you get the idea), the Iceberg Wedge (God! Another wedge! But, mercifully, this one was kicked up with toasted almonds), and the Organic Greens (roasted red pears are the exclamation points here, and work nicely with the candied walnuts and blue cheese).

I wish the main courses were as consistently outstanding as the appetizers. On one of our early visits, I had the Veal Osso Bucco. Though the meat was beautifully seared and "fallin' off the bone" tender, the Jus was incredibly acidic, like pure vinegar. (I tasted it for a day afterwards.) I passed it around the table, and everyone said I should have sent it back, but I was basking in the afterglow of the lobster and the calamari, so I went with it. But wait--I'm not finished: The following week I went in again (this time with a party of 6) and accosted the (very) patient server about my experience. He seemed genuinely concerned, scampered away, and returned minutes later with a little ramekin of the offending Jus. I tasted it, and it was savory and delicious. The vinegary component was in there, but it was well within specifications. So what happened? I don't know...but, in my ongoing efforts to be objective, if your Osso Bucco isn't right, send it back. If they are as accommodating as our waiter was, they will make it right.

One of the stars of the entree show has to be the Herb Crusted Rockfish in Thai Curry Broth (tender, flaky, and rich with curry). The other piscene offering on the menu that night was the Roasted Sea Bass which also met with excellent reviews. These people know how to do fish. Same goes for the Pan Seared Scallops. The earthy sweetness of the honey worked perfectly with the lobster and saffron-infused risotto. This could very well be Cloud 9's "go to" dish.

Others enjoyed the Penne and Shrimp with a tomato/vodka sauce (spicy, with a generous portion of shrimp), and the Chicken Piccata (topped with a citrusy lemon/caper sauce and a cute little risotto cake). At the behest of two gentlemen at an adjoining table, I had the BBQ Baby Back ribs, and they were OK. (As a former BBQ maven, I can be a big pain in the butt about these things.) The ribs were nicely punctuated by tempura onion rings and a rather sweet but crunchy honey-mustard slaw.

The Internet is loaded with complaints about the attitude of the bartenders/bouncers there, but I have yet to experience anything like that. Maybe I just haven't been to the bar enough. Either way, please post a comment below if you disagree. Regarding the menu, I suggest you pick your favorites and stick with them. I worry about The Veal Incident and how consistently things are watched when they leave the kitchen. Future visits will tell--and there will be future visits: I'm already pining away for those lobster tails, the calamari, the rockfish and those wonderful scallops.

Cloud 9 is at 234 Rehoboth Avenue, on the south side, in the third block back from the ocean. The bar is busy, especially on the weekends, with lots of music, dancing and even live entertainment from time to time. There's a cool patio on the Christian St. side of the building that becomes a whole 'nuther party on a summer night. Their hours vary in the off-season, so be sure to call (302) 226-1999. Click here to see a sample menu. (D., Bar) Price range: Expensive -.