Rehoboth Foodie

It's a brewery. No, it's a restaurant. No, it's a liquor store. No, it's a distillery. No, it's a pub.... Well, if it's Dogfish Head, it's all of those things including, back in 1995, the world's smallest commercial brewery. Fifteen years later they now distribute 20 styles of beer to over 25 states. Pretty impressive for a little cottage-lookin' building on Rehoboth Avenue.

I love the Shelter Pale Ale. Recommended by a server as "light, but not too light," this golden brew is full of malty flavor. (I also learned that you NEVER say the word "Lite" inside Dogfish Head.) Of course, as a Brew Pub and a self-proclaimed purveyor of comfort food, that also extends to the cuisine.

The unequivocal star of the show at Dogfish Head is the Crab and Corn Chowder. Unassumingly tucked into the corner of the menu, you could miss it entirely. There are a lot of good soups in Rehoboth Beach, and this magical elixir (eloquent, huh?) is close to the top of the list. The base is rich and flavorful (a bit of sherry, perhaps?) and not floury or thick. It's loaded with veggies and lots of crabmeat. Always a stickler for accuracy, your Foodie actually went back the very next night to make sure that this chock-full-of-goodies bowl had not been the exception rather than the rule (ladled from the bottom of the pot or something like that). Well, it was just the same as the night before, and everyone in our party ordered it. Each bowl or cup was equally full of veggies, corn and crabmeat.

Hungry? Try the "Dogpile." Think nachos, but with artichoke-spinach dip and (...wait for it...) pita bread wedges! Do not order this for yourself unless you don't plan to eat anything else that day. It's rich, cheesy and very filling. The toasted pita, crowned with the dip, mozzarella, tomatoes and onions makes for a true comfort-food mouth feel. It even looks cool. Another "must get" is Dogfish Head's spicy spin on Calamari. Yes, it's salty and crispy just like it's supposed to be, but mixed in with the little crunchy squid morsels are banana peppers and cajun spices. Two sauces accompany.

I ordered the "Indulgence Burger." It was tasty, if not a bit well-done for my taste (I ordered it medium). On that note, I have to digress for a moment: We all make mistakes. The problem is that we don't always own-up to them. On our most recent visit, one of our party ordered his burger medium rare. It came out thoroughly well-done. He was unhappy (but not rude, or I wouldn't have been at the same table with him). The server was apologetic, falling all over herself to replace it or get him something else. The point is this: About 5 minutes later, she returned to the table and told us that this had been her mistake, not the kitchen's. She said that she didn't want us to blame the kitchen for her oversight. As a former restaurateur myself, I will tell you that this is a rarity. The owners of this place are lucky to have her.

I'd heard about their pizzas ("woodgrilled" and all that) and felt it was my Foodie duty to order one. Well, it was a crispy surprise and I loved it. I say over and over that there are many varieties of "pizza," and each one stands on its own. This was amazingly thin, and covered with just the right amount of everything (I got the mozzarella, pepperoni and parmesan). Each slice had a "crunch" to it, and I would get it again any time. On two other occasions, noshing companions ordered the beer-battered Fish & Chips. The batter was crispy, with a rich, beer taste. I found the fish itself to be more dense and less flaky than what I'm used to (sometimes that happens when fish is not completely thawed when it is put down into the fryer), but overall it was good. By the way, order the fries "well-done." Take my word for it.

Our server suggested we try the Brown Honey Rum. They distill this stuff themselves (right upstairs!) and it is sweetly woody and aromatic. Without further ado, we ended up taking two bottles home. After extensive research, I have determined that this beverage is particularly pleasing sipped in front of the TV in a slightly warmed brandy snifter.

The place has a friendly vibe. The manager strolled from table to table making sure everybody was happy. I think that's nice, especially for a place that's been around for so long. Dogfish Head is at 320 Rehoboth Ave., on the south side just east of the circle. They have specials (check my list here on the site), so give 'em a call at (302) 226-BREW to find out what's going on. Click here to see the Woodgrilled Pizza menu. (L., D., Bar) Price range:Moderate -.