Rehoboth Foodie

Pretty much every local has "go-to" spot where they take out-of-towners to impress them with Rehoboth Beach dining. Nage was my "go-to" spot from the moment I moved here. Almost within waddling distance of my house, the informal and smokey bistro atmosphere was upbeat and fun. And the food was unequalled.

Around the same time that I started writing for RehobothFoodie.com, Nage remodeled and extended into the old fishmonger space next door. Now I was eating out pretty much every night, and was surprised and disappointed to find that my cherished Nage had slipped in the food/service consistency department. I promised my readers honesty and objectivity (how else could I get you to come to the site?), and now I had to put my keyboard where my mouth was. Worse yet, I served on several local charity boards with chef Hari Cameron and liked him very much. It was not a pleasant experience. But I had to be honest.

Original chef/owner Kevin Reading had since moved on to the northern hinterlands, and I continued to go back, posting multiple updates -- some good, some bad -- to the originally critical review. As time went by, the reports got better and better. Was Nage back to its former glory? I was thoroughly complimented when owner Josh Grapski and manager Mark Harrison told me that they had made changes in their systems there at Nage, in large part because of that critical review. I was complimented, and, for a fleeting moment, humbled. Don't worry. It didn't last long.

After hearing that, I decided to consolidate all those positive updates and my more recent experiences into a brand new article. I have removed visitor comments (below) that made reference to the old article. Please post your new and recent experiences for us all to share. I am pleased to report that, after multiple visits to Nage (several of them in disguise -- really), they could, in fact, be returning to their former glory. And that makes me happy. I love Rehoboth dining, and I love it even more when restaurants do it right. And now I can stand within arm's reach of Hari and not fear getting smacked.

The old Knuckle Sandwich (lobster salad on a warm, buttery croissant) that I loved to devour around noon at that high-top against the divider wall to the right of the kitchen is off the lunch menu. Sadly, it was one of the dishes that suffered in quality during their troubled time. But there are several gems on the menu that make up for it. Before I start with individual dishes, I have to warn you that chef du cuisine Hari Cameron is a nut for fresh, locally sourced ingredients. So things change regularly at Nage. (Check out Hari's website, www.thecombandwattle.com.)

The relatively new lunch menu at Nage is pretty extensive. One of the quickies is the Nage Duo. Choose either a soup (Hari's soups have always been delicious) or a little arugula salad along with any entree. It comes out quickly. During the summer I had the pleasure of trying the cold Cucumber/Melon soup. It's seasonal, of course, but I'll bet if I whine loud enough Hari will bring it back in the spring. It's been replaced in a perfectly seasonal fashion with the Apple and Sweet Potato soup. Maple Pecans and brown sugar butter make it almost a meal in itself. The other starter you have to try is the Hickman's Sausage Flatbread. For the uninitiated, Hickman's is the butcher shop next door to Nage. It doesn't get any fresher than that.

One more starter you shouldn't miss is the Baked Oysters Asiago. This kicked-up take on clams casino is deliciously cheesy with spinach and mushrooms. They are pretty big, and sold individually. Get a few. You won't be sorry.

Pears and Blue Cheese were meant to be together, and Nage's Pear and Blue Cheese Melt blends the two quite nicely. Caramel onion jam (!) works wonders with the blue cheese, and a little arugula side salad adds a bitter crunchiness. Another sandwich not to be missed is the Turkey and Brie melt. Gently sweet ligonberry jam marries quite happily with the creaminess of the ripe brie, and a little arugula adds a fresh, leafy component. Yes, I still mourn the Knuckle Sandwich, but I go back to drown my sorrows in the new offerings.

I can't leave the sandwich department without mentioning the Pork Belly BLT, slathered with chorizo aioli (! again) and their famous tomato jam. If you like bacon (who the heck doesn't?) you'll love this one. I have to admit that the Mac & Cheese has always been a little too "truffley" for me. It's all I can taste. I wish they would back it off a little and let the dairy side of the cheese show through. This has not, however, stopped me from ordering it from time to time.

I'm happy to tell you that several of the old standbys that originally put Nage on the Dinner Map are still on the menu. In the starter dept., get the Blue Corn Johnnycakes with the Roasted Chestnut Butter. They are almost perfect and might actually qualify for the star of the appetizer show. I also like to start off with the little dish of olives. The chili flakes and the confection-like crustiness of the preserved lemon makes this dish sing.

Another positive development is that several of the lunch sandwiches, soups, starters and salads (including a flatbread) remain on the dinner menu, though some of them appear in a slightly different form. (These guys are nothing if not creative.) The old standbys are still there, none the least of which the Prime Rib Burger and the Filet (featuring a crispy little puck of truffle potato cake and green beans, all basking happily in a deeply savory demi glace). The Pan-Roasted Halibut is surrounded with mushrooms, shallots and carrots in a cauliflower puree. A dollop of horseradish provides a happy exclamation mark. Though good in its own right, I order the Braised Lamb Shank for the sole purpose of getting the darkly braised cippolini onions. I love these little orbs, and could almost make a meal of them. Pair them with that savory lamb, and it's "Take me now, Lord!"

UPDATE: Well, I just returned from my second Sunday Brunch at Nage. My first visit was totally anonymous (these are very nice people, and they can't help but make you feel welcome. But I was there for check out the food and service for you, not to kibitz). Today, however, I was dining with a local music celebrity and we just let it all hang out. In spite of our relatively high profile, the food and the service were the same on both visits. That's good news.

Blueberry scones were presented shortly after we were seated. They were wonderful (especially after being slathered in butter) and sported large pieces of sweet blueberries. It tasted like they had just come out of the oven.

On my first visit for brunch, I had the Pear & Blue Cheese Melt. What an amazing combination of tastes. At first glance, I was a little scared of the Caramelized Onion Jam, but it worked perfectly. Companions ordered the Eggs Chesapeake. Imagine Eggs Benedict built on crab cakes rather than Canadian bacon. The required asparagus and hollandaise crowned it all, as both little stacks proudly perched on English Muffin halves.

Today I ordered the Croque Madame [pictured, upper right]. Far from being just a grilled cheese sandwich (as the name suggests), this vertigenous structure is the quintesenntial breakfast plate. About a half-pound of breakfast ham is paired with creamy cheese and firmly clamped within a soft, grilled brioche. No, it's not done yet: The entire stack is covered in a velvety mornay sauce containing what tasted like the traditional gruyere and parmesan. Nope...not done yet: It's all crowned with a sunny-side-up fried egg. Don't want to be bothered with eating for the next couple of days? Get this. It was delicious.

A side of bacon was ordered. It was properly cooked: Crispy and dark with no rubbery fat. I hate eating bacon that isn't well done. It's like eating ear lobes. Sorry. It is.

Our musician/foodie companion ordered the Braised Bacon and Eggs [pictured, above left]. Two expertly fried sunnies peer back at you from atop grilled and crispy croutons and a cool, crisp frisee salad. On the side lurks a braised square of bacon (big enough to be called pork belly). Paprika mayo flavors the croutons. Our two companions ordered the Creme Brulee French Toast with Cranberry Syrup [pictured, right]. I will quote one of them: "It looks so simple. Until you taste it. It's delicious." They both did comment that it was difficult to discern whatever cranberry might have been in the syrup.

We ordered a plate of Hickman's Sausage Gravy served over Homemade Biscuits "for the table" [pictured left]. Decadent, savory, and loaded with chunks of lean sausage, this creamy gravy hitched a ride on the perfect vehicle for its trip to our mouths: moist, yeasty biscuits with a buttery crunch on the outside. Of course, mimosas and bloodies were not in short supply. Click here to take a look at the latest Sunday Brunch menu.

Now back to our originally scheduled program already in progress:

It looks like Nage is back, and with a vengeance. Any tiny part I might have played in that makes it a win-win on 4 levels: You get a good place to dine, I get to look good, the restaurant thrives, and Rehoboth has yet another quality eatery to attract the discriminating diner.

I know the dishes above make it sound like Nage is a carnivorous paradise, but, veggie-heads, take heart. Meatless Monday is still on the schedule. I've been a couple of times, and it almost made me want to be a vegetarian. (Yeah, right. Only kidding.) But those of the veggie/vegan persuasion can check out Deb Griffin's vegetarian review of Meatless Monday at Nage right here on RehobothFoodie.com. Just click here.

Bill McManus has also checked out the wines at Nage: Click here to pick out the perfect wine to have with dinner.

Nage is located at 19730 Coastal Highway (Rt. 1), in the Shore Plaza with the new Outlet Liquors, directly across from the Tanger Seaside Outlets. There's tons of free parking. Give them a call to check on the hours. They do take reservations. 302-226-2037. Click here for a look at their sample dinner menu. (L. (not Sunday), D., Bar) Price Range: Expensive +.