Rehoboth Foodie

At the risk of the flood of emails I'll get accusing me of being "too nice" (I am not, really. Just ask my friends), I'm not sure if there is a more friendly Rehoboth Beach restaurant owner than Shawn Xiong. He and Danielle operated a restaurant in Wilmington for 11 years before opening Confucius on Memorial Day in 2004. They make a point of greeting every visitor to this understated little gem of a restaurant, and I've got to tell you this: After my very first visit there (part of a loud, drunken birthday group of over 15 people), he remembered me by my voice on the phone (and I wasn't even one of the loud ones!). Needless to say, I have since added Confucius to my list of places where I take guests whom I don't want to disappoint.

I evaluate every place I eat with a critical eye (and palate) so you'll continue to trust my opinions. But I have to tell you that everything I've tried so far at Confucius has been quite good. First off, don't miss the Spicy Cold Noodles. Covered in a light, spicy sauce (with a dollop of fiery Sriracha on the side), they are simply delicious. I could order two and make them a main course. I've also had the Salt and Pepper Calamari and the Salt and Pepper Shrimp. Both are great. The calamari requires a bit more explanation: Rather than slicing the mantle of the little cephalopod into the traditional "rings," Shawn keeps about 2 or 3 inches of the body intact and fries it in a light, salty/peppery batter until each piece is crunchy with a firm, not-rubbery bite. Accompanying diners also loved the coconut shrimp and the Curry BBQ Beef Sticks. It would be easy to make a whole meal out of the appetizers. I probably do, but that doesn't stop me from ordering a main course.

I've never looked askance at a crispy breaded chicken chunk, and the Tong Ann Chicken is no exception. The sweet/spicy ginger coating on the white-meat chicken is happily married to the crunchy string beans. Another tasty offering is the Orange Chicken. It's not fried nuggets like the Tong Ann; it is sliced. Just last week my next door neighbor ordered the Crispy Duck. She loved it. Served with little "tortilla"-like rounds, crunchy spring onions and little squares of crispy, crunchy skin, she left the plate shiny and clean. Other members of various dining parties have ordered (and reordered) the Black Pepper Beef, the Seafood Ginger Sauce, and the Pan-Seared Salmon (with a cilantro/lime/garlic seasoning over broccoli). No complaints anywhere.

Lover of "hot" that I am, I order the Hot Pepper Chicken. As promised, it's dished up with an assortment of peppers, both fresh and dried. Top it off with scallions, and it's not soon to be forgotten (in a lot of ways...). And I'm sure the Hot Pepper Pork is just as good. If you've gotten this far, then I'm not ashamed to admit that my other favorite is the ubiquitous Kung Pao Chicken [pictured, right]. But any similarity to your neighborhood "Hunan" carry-out joint ends there. It has NOT been languishing on a hot steam table all afternoon, vegetables and peanuts slowly disintegrating, desperately waiting for you and your Visa card. At Confucius they add the vegetables and peanuts at the last minute. They're colorful, crackley, and the taste and texture stand up perfectly to the darkly sweet and spicy sauce. If you don't want it spicy hot, be sure to tell them.

I can't finish without urging you to order the bright green and crispy Sauteed String Beans "for the table." They're covered in a savory hot sauce and there's enough for a big garlicky spoonful for at least two or three people.

Confucius is in a tiny building on the west end of Wilmington Avenue, on the north side (57 Wilmington), at the intersection with Second Street directly across from Salt Air (formerly Fusion). They DO take reservations. Give 'em a call at 302-227-3848. Click here for a look at the dinner menu. (L. (weekends only), D.) Price Range: Moderate +.