Rehoboth Foodie

Things were getting a little dark and scary in The Cultured Pearl's well-worn (former) location (since 1993) on Wilmington Ave., so owner and operator Susan Townley Wood made the decision to reconceive "The Pearl" in its present digs at the intersection of Rehoboth and Lake Aves. And what digs they are! The reception area is nestled at the bottom of a grand stairway suspended above a gurgling Koi pond. Ascending past the (very talkative) tropical birds, you may choose to perch at the streamlined bar, nest in the intimate Sushi-bar section, flock to the dining room (part of which overlooks Rehoboth Avenue, and is divided by running water), or glide out to the beautifully designed rooftop seating area. You forget that you're "on the roof" as you relax at bar-height tables topped by gazebos, surrounded by a 15,000 gallon "lake" that is home to various aquatic species swimming just below your feet. There is quite possibly no better place to be on a warm, breezy summer evening in Rehoboth Beach. Agree? Disagree? Post a comment below.

The Cultured Pearl changes the menu regularly, and seasonal specials appear and disappear without warning. I must say that I had one rather unpleasent experience when arriving (in the summer, but during the week) without reservations. The host was rude and acted like he simply could not deign to seat us -- until I told him that our party of six would happily leave and go down the street to Stingray. I really don't believe he acted the way Ms. Wood would have wanted him to. He needs to remember he's not in Midtown Manhattan.

Though Cultured Pearl's concept is obviously Japanese, there's a whole lot more on the menu, including a few surprises (more about that later). Susan's husband, Chef Robert, keeps regulars guessing with specials and unusual goodies. He even has a special "kids section" where families with young children can enjoy themselves without disturbing other diners or feeling uncomfortable. What a great idea!

I always start with the seasoned Edamame (they have 5 varieties), and the to-die-for Cream of Crab Soup (add jalapeno cheese bread, thank you). I really like the Cultured Salad, too. It has a great acidic/textural thing going on with mandarin orange, cranberries, bacon, blue cheese and pine nuts. I've been known to order two and make it dinner. My regular dining companions get the Warm Asian Chopped Salad with chicken, corn, onions, peppers, sugar snap peas, chilis, chopped soy and chopped peanuts.

I love the Veggie Tempura appetizer. The texture of the Tempura batter is (almost always) crispy and non-greasy. I have to admit that some of the vegetables have come out a little soggy and tasting of oil a couple of times (frying temp too low? Not properly dried off before frying?). Don't miss the Mango (turkey!) Wings (mango green curry lime, cilantro and peanuts) and the Pork or Shrimp Dumplings with a tasty dipping sauce.

One of the surprises at Cultured Pearl is the sudden in-season appearance of Indian dishes. Off-season, Susan hints at it (a warm and savory Naan is on the menu even now) but when the crowds begin to descend, the Indian dishes effectively fill the gaping void of Indian Food in this little town.

The Sushi selection is huge and varied. I have had the Firecracker (tempura tuna and salmon, wrapped in Nori with bright green jalapenos, cool crabmeat with a spicy Sriracha exclamation point). My regular companions who know Sushi always get the various combinations. There's something for everybody, both cooked and uncooked. On the entree menu, my favorite is the Cashew Chicken. It's nothing like your corner Chinese carry-out. It's sweet and crunchy with fresh ingredients with a pleasing jasmine twist. The green curry beef and the yellow curry shrimp (there's that Indian thing again!) have both been happily devoured in my presence. The Thai Crab Cakes and the Autumn Duck are both popular and delicious to view and to taste. Light and crispy Shrimp Tempura is a regular staple at "The Pearl."

UPDATE: We went to last Monday's "Sushi Night" with a party of 6. Amazingly enough, we again experienced the hint of front-desk attitude and off-handedness I mentioned before, but this time we had indeed called for reservations. Once we got beyond that snippy little moment (what IS it with these kids?), our waiter was delightful. We snarfed up various combinations of the Kappa Roll (cukes and sesame), the Avocado Roll, the Delaware Roll (cukes, avocado, asparagus and kanpyo (dried strips of gourd), and, of course, the obligatory California (crabstick, cukes and avocado). We all opted for the upsell and paid a little more for the Firecracker Rolls. They are delicious. I wish they would serve more of that fiery Sriracha sauce on the side. I love the stuff.

The Cultured Pearl is at 301 Rehoboth Avenue at Lake Ave. Look for the Starbucks. Call (302) 227-8493 to check hours and specials, or to make reservations. Check out the menus and the fun graphics at their web site (www.culturedpearl.us). (D., Bar) Price Range: Expensive.