Rehoboth Foodie

Matt Haley's downtown Rehoboth Beach facility bears his signature everywhere you look. The open decor with lots of "white space," the well-trained servers, and basic ingredients treated to a creative twist. I still mourn the old RedFin in Bethany Beach (one of his first ventures), but after an interesting little legal drama (complete with a gavel-wielding auctioneer), it suddenly became Blue Coast. Other than the roof color, everything remained the same. Rehoboth's Lupo di Mare is reminiscent of Blue Coast, minus the view of Salt Pond.

Well, enough chit-chat. Let's get down to business. First off, try the Fried Calamari. It's sprinkled with sea salt and served with a warm red sauce. When I'm with more than four people, I secretly order two "for the table" (translation: one for them, one for me). I also like the White Bean and Roasted Garlic Dip (kind of a hummus without the chick peas and tahini) and the Proscuitto-wrapped Fig with gorgonzola, walnuts and a balsamic syrup. Matt does interesting things with balsamic vinegar. Unfortunately, last summer's balsamic-drizzled vanilla ice cream was not one of them, but y'gotta give him credit for trying. Dining companions have also enjoyed the Grilled Artichoke and the Homemade Mozzarella.

Whatever you do, don't skip the Veal Meatballs. I get them every time. Rich and tender, they're slathered with a light red sauce that's a staple at Lupo di Mare. While you're at it, the grilled sausage and peppers "starter" is also bright and flavorful. The Italian sausage is the real thing, with a peppery taste and a firm, non-greasy texture. The salads sport such goodies as pistachios, chick peas, beets, artichokes, red beans, black olives, peccorino, gorgonzola, anchovies (just to name a few), and they're like fireworks in your mouth.

The menu has a separate section just for pasta, but my experience suggests that the stars of the show are the Slow Roasted Pork Bolognese (with spinach, rosemary and orange zest); the Wild Mushroom Linguine (arugula, pancetts, brandy creme), and the Sausage and Pepper Linguine (onions, chiles, rabe, garlic). If you've had any of the others, please post your comments below.

Another of my favorites is the Seared Jumbo Shrimp, nestled in a cozy little bed of wild mushroom risotto with white balsamic butter. Beware: It looks like a small portion, but don't be fooled. It's very filling! Companions have also raved about the fallin'-off-the-bone Lamb Shank (decorated with polenta and braised fennel), and the Scallops (each little morsel encrusted with porcini mushrooms, surrounded by raisins and yellow tomato). I've singled these out because I can't get some of my Foodies-in-Waiting to order anything else.

You can't miss the place. It's at 247 Rehoboth Avenue on the first floor of the big, yellow Hotel Rehoboth at the corner of Lake Avenue and Rehoboth Avenue. Check their hours in the off-season (302) 226-2240. Click here for the menu at Lupo di Mare. (D., Bar) Price Range: Expensive -.