Rehoboth Foodie

Of all the landmarks in Delaware, one of the most ubiquitous is the La Tolteca and La Tonalteca Mexican restaurants. Though they only recently "split" by making the minor changes in their names, they're all pretty much the same.

My experience is limited to the La Tonalteca installation on Rt. 1 in Rehoboth Beach. I often go there with the same group of people and each person is stuck on their own favorite dish. I like Tex-Mex, so I get the #125 combo platter with the chicken burrito, cheese enchilada and a hard chicken taco (on the side). The chicken filling is shredded white meat and it makes all of their chicken dishes first-class. Another special feature is their queso. Introduced to me by David, the contractor who rebuilt my kitchen, it's creamy and rich. I suspect that it is Oaxaca cheese (also called Mexican Melting Cheese and pronounced "Wa-Hocka"). Try as I might, I can't get it to melt like that at home.

My only major criticism is that the wait staff and the kitchen tend to get overwhelmed when they are very busy. Several times I have had orders mixed up, sides missing or long waits for already-ordered meals when they are slammed. During high season, or when their lot is full, I just skip it and go the next night. I hate to ruin great food with annoying or off-handed service. But I always go back.

One of my favorite people with whom I dine alternates between the Pork Carnitas and the Chicken Mole. The Carnitas are chunks of seasoned, roasted pork. They are braised and darkly crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. The Chicken Mole consists of chicken breast slathered with the rich and dark Mole sauce. The signature ingredents of most Mole sauces are usually a bit of chocolate and a bit of peanut butter. It is important that neither of these dominate, and many restaurants get it wrong. Tonalteca gets it right. By the way, at the risk of further annoying the Chronic Complainers, they have the best salsa of any other local restaurant, Mexican or otherwise. I have spoken.

La Tonalteca is open year 'round, with three local installations all with the same menu. The one I frequent is at 4578 Highway One in Rehoboth Beach, directly across from the Tanger Midway Outlets. They also have a location in Milford, on Rt. 113 (422-2111) and their newest in Millsboro just north of BJ's on Rt. 113 (934-9111). They have special margarita nights, so give the Rehoboth branch a call at 302-644-3994 for details. Click here for a look at La Tonalteca's menu. (L., D., Bar) Price Range: Inexpensive +.