Rehoboth Foodie

Before the Rehoboth Foodie migrated north to Rehoboth Beach, he prowled the restaurants and eateries of Bethany Beach (and points south). It's nice to have a working knowledge of the southern feeding grounds, and to know (in spite of what The Foodie's Rehoboth friends believe) that there is, indeed, civilized noshing south of the Dewey Beach city limits. Certainly included under "civilized" was the Touch of Italy Salumeria and Pasticceria in Millville, DE (just west of Ocean View which is just west of Bethany Beach which is just west of that big blue wet thing). A quick translation guide for the (epi)curious: a salumeria is literally a "cured meat shop," from the Italian "salumi" meaning "cured meat." In America it has come to mean an Italian Deli with authentic Italian meats, sausages (salami...get it?) and cheeses. A pasticceria is an Italian pastry shop.

Imagine your humble Foodie's joy when those magical words: "Touch of Italy Coming Soon!" appeared in the window of the little storefront next to the Blue Moon right in the middle of his beloved Rehoboth Beach! Dreams of fresh Italian bread, cookies, pastries and authentic cheeses and meats danced in the poor, addled Foodie's head.

Along with their partner and friend Bob Ciprietti, brothers Lou and Frank Bascio converted that little storefront into a place to meet, greet, see and be seen. The aroma is almost overwhelming and they scurry about behind the refrigerated cases constructing sandwiches with fresh, garlicky stuff. My favorite is the "Z!!!!!!!!!" (that's actually the name). A simple sandwich made with crusty semolina Italian bread, pancotta ham (kind of like bacon, but cured, not smoked) and sun dried tomatoes. The oil from the tomatoes soaks into the bread. 'Nuff said. I've also had the Italian Combo (made with intensely flavored Italian meats and cheeses, all topped with virgin olive oil), the Don Orazio (hot capicola ham, their impossibly fresh and moist homemade mozzarella and sun dried peppers), and the Blanco E'Rosso (milky, handmade mozzarella, tomatoes and oil...it's like a Caprese sandwich!). The brothers also have a few Americanized goodies for the faint-of-heart, including roast beef, ham, american and swiss cheese, fried breast of chicken, chicken parm, etc., etc.

Then there's the pastry department. They might not have everything at all times, but everything they have is delectible. My favorites are the almond-flavored pignoli nut cookies and macaroons and the orange wedding cookies. But don't let me regiment your thinking! Check out their selections of the day. About an hour ago I bought eight sfogliatelle (custard filled "lobster tails"--not the feisty marine arachnids, mind you, but little flaky cream puffs with a delicately layered "lobster tail" look). I'll be serving them to guests tomorrow night for dessert. Don't say anything--I'm telling them I whipped 'em up myself.

UPDATE! Touch of Italy has added Italian Ice to their arsenal of goodies. Lighter and lower in fat than ice cream or gelato, it has a snowy texture and is delicately flavored (try the lemon!). They also offer a variety of pies...cross your fingers that they have a peach pie. And don't pass up the butter/ricotta cookies--round, semi-soft and covered in a white icing, they are sublime.

Of course, everything is prepared for carry out, and they also have a busy catering service. Touch of Italy will also happily build gift baskets that feature some of the pastas (18 varieties), condiments, sauces and other bottled and canned goodies they sell.

Touch of Italy is immediately to the right of the Blue Moon Restaurant/Bar at 33A Baltimore Avenue. They are open early (7:30am) until late (call in the off season), and during the season they get a spirited late-night crowd from the Baltimore Ave. drinkeries. Rehoboth Beach really needed something ethnic like this. Again...be sure to call in the off-season. Y'never know. (302-227-1500). Click here for a look at the Rehoboth Touch of Italy's menu. (B., L., D.) Price range: Moderate.