Rehoboth Foodie

So, answer me this question: Where can you get Thanksgiving dinner year 'round, on a fresh sub roll, not only here on Rehoboth Avenue, but also in Las Vegas? Only one place: Capriotti's. First off, I believe that one of the reasons Capriotti's food is so consistent is that co-owner Dave Morgan is (almost) always there. That makes a big difference in a business where it's sometimes just too easy to see the next person in line as "just another customer." To his credit, even when he takes a rare moment off, the service is friendly and consistent.

The Thanksgiving Dinner sub is called the "Bobbi," apparently named after the Wilmington family's matiarch. It's  an overstuffed celebration of fresh turkey (no cold cuts here), cranberry sauce, stuffing, mayo and a tasty combination of spices, perfectly rounded out by their impossibly fresh bread.

Though I have swallowed my fair share of Bobbis, my favorites are the cheesesteak and the chicken cheesesteak. I've said it before, and I'll say it again (well, actually it was first said by gourmet and culinary educator James Beard): "Too few people understand a really good sandwich." Capriotti's Sub Shop certainly steps up to the plate with their cheesesteaks/chicken cheesesteaks. Each one is made to order, and everything is fresh, including the roll (it's worth saying again...).

I get it with a small amount of fried onions, extra pickles, lettuce, tomato, mayo and lots of hot cherry pepper spread. If you ask, they will cook cherry pepper rings right along with the chicken: Beware...it's HOT. The chicken is always properly cooked, and they're generous with it and the beef. It's so important that a sub like this that it be eaten immediately to preserve the cold/hot temperature gradient between the lettuce/tomatoes and the meat. Nothing is more disgusting than warm lettuce--especially Iceberg. I really believe that this is a big part of a perfect cheesesteak. Obsessive? Maybe. But if I'm going to spend the calories and carbs on a big ol' sub, it better be perfect.

It is because of all these things that I feel that Capriotti's Chicken Cheesesteak might be the Best at the Beach. I hope they keep up the quality if they decide to open another store! I'll keep you posted.

I also like their Italian sub, but, to be fair, they are neck-and-neck with the Italian sub from another Rehoboth deli/sub shop that is also reviewed here. The difference is not in the bread and ingredients (all are fresh). The difference is in the technique of building the sub and how the fillings work with the size of the roll and how easy it is to handle. If stuff falls out, it's not made perfectly. Unfortunately, Capriotti's ingredients fall out when you eat it because they stack everything on the roll without folding the meats/cheese over the fillings. This is important when combining all the various textures present in a good Italian sub. Send me your own feedback on this issue, please. The techniques and dynamics of Italian Sub construction and consumption are often overlooked and must be addressed! And who else but your Foodie has the time (or inclination) to think about these things!?!?!

Do beware of the "large!" It think Capriotti's "large" is the only "large" of anything that I've been unable to finish. They dutifully warned me--and of course I knew better--until the sub came out from behind the counter, partially blocking out the sun, frightening small children and dwarfing everything in its path. It's 20" long (that's more than half of a yardstick!!). Obviously, order it to split, or perhaps as a roadblock or a weapon. The medium is the typical "large" everywhere else and the perfect dinner size for a growing boy such as myself.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention the turkey sub. Basically a "Bobbi" without all the Thanksgiving fixin's, the fresh (yup, they roast 'em right there) turkey with lettuce, tomato with a nicely spiced oil is delicious. Don't forget the cheese, either. My #1 dining companion cannot get enough of this cool and crunchy delight.

Capriotti's in Rehoboth is clean, friendly and the service is quick. Dave has also acquired the Capriotti's in Bethany Beach and he is striving to make it as friendly and efficient as Rehoboth Avenue. Do not confuse these locations with the other Capriotti's in Lewes. I have eaten at both, and I prefer the Rehoboth location. I've been put off more than once by the service, and frankly, the dismissive attitude, at the Lewes location (no affiliation with the Rehoboth/Bethany franchise).

The Rehoboth Capriotti's is about half way down the first block from the Ocean on the north side of Rehoboth Ave. The Bethany shop is in the little strip center to the right of DiFebo's, at 767 Garfield Parkway. Off season the hours are all over the place, so double-check Rehoboth at 302-226-2323, Bethany at 302-537-1922. They also offer local delivery. Click here to select menus of their items. (L., D.) Price Range: Inexpensive.