Rehoboth Foodie

It's no secret that Jake's Wayback Burgers is easily filling the void left by the recent shuttering of the 5 Guys store in Lewes. But Rehoboth Beach is not Jake's first rodeo by any means. The chain's increasing presence on the East Coast, including Connecticut, Massachusetts, North Carolina, Florida, Pennsylvania, Maryland and New Jersey is a pretty good indication that they must be doing something right. I know what you're thinking: "Spare us the rambling hyperbole. How does it compare to 5 Guys?"

Well, first things first, dear reader. Good fried things come to those who wait.

The new Jake's Wayback Burgers is located in the old Candy Kitchen space on the northwest corner of Lighthouse Plaza next to QVC outlet. Owner Bill Brown always seems to be there. He claims that he has a twin brother, but I think he's just trying to hide the fact that he never sleeps. Either way, he's doing what a good owner is supposed to do: Workin' the crowd, being friendly, and taking care of small problems both behind and in front of the counter. ("Extra mustard? Comin' right up.")

Jake's menu covers a lot of ground. Not only do they have the single and double burgers, but they also have a triple version (not unlike Fatburger on the West Coast and in Vegas). The double [pictured right, with extra toppings] is the one to order (get the triple, and there's no room for anything else). The meat is never frozen, and you can tell, 'cause it's not mushy. Each sandwich is made to order, so they come out hot and fresh. They offer the obligatory fries, but the star of the side show is the onion rings [a double order is pictured, left]. We order them well done so they're extra crunchy. You can even get a little plastic ramekin of spicy dipping sauce on the side. I was sworn to secrecy as to the hot pepper component, though I'd like to be Frank with you about it.

UPDATE! Well, it's Lent, and Bill Brown wants to keep the holy among us eating well and eating at Jake's Wayback Burgers. So he has added a cod filet sandwich [pictured, below right] to the menu. Needless to say, I don't go to Jake's for fish, but Bill tied me down and made me try it. I have to admit I was surprised: It was quite good! Crispy and crunchy on the outside, snow-white flakeyness on the inside [see the closeup pictured left] -- and those delicious toasted soft rolls didn't hurt either. I got it with tartar sauce, pickles and lettuce. He plans to keep it on even after Easter.

We now return you to our program already in progress....

Their hot dog is available in a number of forms, including with cheese, or cheese and a fairly mild and not all that interesting chili sauce that really only makes it messy.

YET ANOTHER UPDATE! The Foodie lives for those (rare) moments when a restaurant owner or chef actually changes something because of the Foodie's whining. I got an email from co-owner Bill Brown regarding my rather offhanded dismissal of their chili-dog sauce [just above]. Apparently I hit a nerve, because they have competely changed the chili. In fact, he insisted I drop by for a taste. Bill could easily beat me up, so I complied (he's in awfully good shape for a guy who scarfs burgers and shakes all day). The new chili is GREAT! Chunky, with nice pieces of vegetables and a deep, savory taste. If you like chili dogs, you will not be disappointed. Thank you, Bill. You made a humble Foodie's day. Pass the hot sauce, please....

We now return to our program already in progress....

Before we were so rudely interrupted, I was talking about the hot dog. As I was saying, I get it with cheese, relish and jalapeños [pictured, below right]. The dog is high quality, with a nice, slightly garlicky edge and a happy SNAP when you bite into it. I like they way they split it and grill the open side. I've been makin' dogs like that for years on my flattop. Who knew!?!

The Foodie has fond memories of the long-gone Marriott Hot Shoppes restaurant. So many goodies--brought right to your car on that shiny metal tray that clipped onto the driver's side window slot of mom & dad's gigantic '59 Pontiac Bonneville. One of my fondest memories is the vanilla milkshake. Jake's Wayback Burgers comes closer to recreating that vanilla milkshake [pictured, left] than anyone I can think of. It's served in the same deep, frosty metal cup in which it is mixed, with a long straw with a nice wide bore so you don't have to collapse your lungs moving the icy elixir to your mouth. There are other varieties (the black & white, which combines vanilla and chocolate, is also great).

For the wimps, there are turkey burgers (why bother!?!?!), a veggie burger (ditto), a BLT (mmm...might have to try that), a grilled cheese, a brisket burger (tasty) and a recent add, the ChEEEEzy Burger. Don't ask. Just order it. You won't be sorry. The less you know, the better.

There are a couple of salads, a kids menu, homemade chips (get the BBQ version--they're good), and fries topped with various combinations of cheese, chili sauce, etc. At the time of this writing, the featured burger is a chicken parm burger. Have you had it? Tell us about it below, please.

OK. So here's the skinny (an unfortunate metaphor) on how they compare to 5 Guys. The meat at both places is of comparable quality. Jakes burgers are not quite as caramelized on the outside, and as a result are very juicy with lots of meaty flavor. 5 Guys burgers are more well done on the outside. I suspect that this is due to a slightly hotter grill at 5 Guys. The crunchy seared result is delicious, but the 5 Guys burger is not quite as juicy. So, it comes down to this: Darker, slightly more firm and seared (5 Guys)? Or juicier, slightly larger--less shrinkage--(Jakes)? It depends. They are both good. Jakes does not wrap the burgers in foil like 5 Guys does, so the roll is not as warm and moist (it soaks up the juice and toppings), but Jake's rolls are fresh and quite tasty with a yeasty, ciabatta-like structure.

The general consensus is that 5 Guys comes out ahead in the fries department, probably because of the peanut oil and their par-fry method. But 5 Guys can't sell you Jake's crispy onion rings--or the fun homemade chips. What to do (short of ordering all three)? Try them all and decide for yourself.

Jake's shines in the milkshake department, hands down. Vanilla, vanilla/chocolate, and 10 (count 'em, ten) other flavors and flavor combinations. They will even add malt if you ask.

Jakes food is served on white wax paper on shiny round cake pan trays. 5 Guys burgers are wrapped in foil and served beneath a hot scoopful of fries. Jakes brings your order to your table. 5 Guys calls out your number and you collect your goodies. 5 Guys gives you peanuts in the shell while you wait, but, truth be told, Jakes food comes out so fast that the peanuts would be anticlimactic. And frankly, after a few little kids have dragged their tiny paws through those peanuts, I'd just as soon pass, thank you.

So which is better? Six of one; a half-a-dozen of the other, as far as I'm concerned.

I have to say that the service is a little friendlier at Jake's. As the local 5 Guys stores began to multiply, the friendly attitude of the original Bethany store (that means you, Jason. It was fun, wasn't it?) was replaced by the more-than-occasional order-taker who either couldn't care less, or at least wants you to think that.

So far, everybody has been quite friendly at Jakes, greeting you when you arrive, and repeating back your order to ensure accuracy and bringing your food to your table. Will this continue, or is it because they're new? It will be up to the management and training people to make sure it does. At this point, you just feel more welcome at Jakes.

By the way, if you find yourself out on Rt. 113 in Millsboro, there is also a new Jake's in the little shopping center across from Arby's and adjacent to the B.J.'s Warehouse Store [pictured, left].

Click here for a look at Jake's Wayback Burgers' menu. The Rehoboth location is presently open 11 am 'til 10 pm. Give 'em a call in the off-season to check their hours (302) 227-3002. They say they will be open the same hours in the winter, but all the new places say that, and things often end up changing some time around January. (L., D.) Price range: Moderate -.