Rehoboth Foodie

Nick and Joan Caggiano's colorful eatery has been a Rehoboth Beach staple since that big blue wet thing was installed at the end of Rehoboth Avenue (or at least since '71...). This is beachy, family dining all the way, complete with the scarred wooden booths, hour-long waits in the summer, wood floors and the cool electric train chugging around the perimeter.

The big seller at this pizza joint is the Nic-O-Boli. Nicola's version of the stromboli, it's basically a pizza, filled with all sorts of stuff and then folded over onto itself, sealed and baked. Though their regular pizza is good, the Nic-O-Boli is the star of the show.

Speaking of pizza, I need to share for a moment: There is one thing about Nicola's that annoys me, and it has nothing to do with the food. For some unexplainable reason they feel it's necessary to make a major point that THEIR pizza sauce and dough are "fat free." It's emblazoned across the menu, their advertising, pizza boxes, etc., etc. Are the dough and sauce "fat free?" Well, quite possibly they are. But most, if not ALL bread (and pizza) dough--and just about all marinara sauces--are virtually "fat free;" not just theirs. They are also undeservedly proud of the fact that their french fry oil is "cholesterol free." ALL frying oil is 100% fat, and is, by definition, "cholesterol free." And why do they make a big deal of the fact that "Our products are loaded with lycopene?" ALL foods made with tomatoes (especially marinara sauces, no matter who serves them) are loaded with lycopene. Are they lying or misrepresenting anything? No. Everything they claim is true. But it makes me sad to think that restaurateurs who have so expertly proven themselves over the years feel the need to suggest that "their" food is somehow healthier than other food of the same type. Other than their "low carb" items (no dough) and "healthy heart" items (no beef or cheese), their pizzas and strombolis are no more or less fattening than anyone else's. Thank you. I'm glad I got that off my chest.

All the basics are there at Nicola Pizza, including baked Ziti with good tasting meatballs, and sandwiches with chicken parm, meatball, tuna, sausage and hot roast beef. Generously portioned, they are guaranteed to fill you up. My favorite is the white pizza with pepperoni. (I'm not a fan of their red sauce, but that's just me. A lot of people like it.) I ask for the white pizza a little well-done so the top darkens a bit and the crust is a little crisper (what's better than a little burnt cheese!?!?!). I also like the "Red Devil Pizza" made with a spicy hot marinara. It reminds me of the standard sauce at Chicho's Pizza in Virginia Beach.

Wanna make your guests think you've been slavin' over the stove all day? Pick up Nicola's meatballs, ziti and 'bolis in quantity to take home. Transfer it all to your own pots, turn on the food channel, splatter a little sauce on that big blousy schmata, wave your big spoon, and tell 'em it's yours. I don't think Nick and Joan will mind a bit.

Regarding their "health" claims, don't go to Nicola's because you think you're going to get skinny on their (or any other pizza parlor's) food. Go there because of the festive, resort atmosphere and the reasonably good and consistent product.

UPDATE! The new Rehoboth Ave. Nicola's is open! The old one is still there (cool electric train 'n' all), but the new installation features a big and inviting slice window right there on the sidewalk in the event you need a slice so badly that you can't drag yourself inside. If you do make it in, there's a big friendly bar and lots of seating. It's noisy (no surprise) and very "beachy." But that's why you're here, right?

They also have a busy carry-out business, so call them at 227-6211 to check their hours. They no longer offer delivery service. (Delaware lifeguards, take note: They have a generous 15% year 'round discount for eat-in meals! Just show your lifeguard ID card.) The original location is at 8 N. First St., next to Lily Thai. The new one is right around the corner on Rehoboth Avenue. (L., D.) Price range: Inexpensive -.