Rehoboth Foodie

I get suspicious of places that offer "combinations" of ethnic cuisines, like "Mel's Czech/Mexican Carry Out," or "Murlene's Down-Home Inuit/Aussie Cucina." Saketumi touts itself as Japanese/Thai/Chinese, and despite the obvious similarities, each has its own distinct style and subtlety. Multiple visits to this self-proclaimed Rehoboth emporium of "modern Asian cuisine" have demonstrated that Saketumi is indeed able to pull it off--consistently and even with a bit of flair.

Saketumi is spacious and austere, dominated by the colorful and well-stocked sushi bar. Textures, recessed lighting and shadows take the place of framed artwork on the walls  Guests are comfortably spaced among bar-height, dining height and banquette tables. This attention to detail carries over to the menu.

On our most recent visit (with a party of 10), the indisputable star of the appetizer show was the Lettuce Wrap and Roll. Fresh lettuce leaves (already cut to the right size) are served alongside a savory mix of ground chicken and pine nuts. Wrap the nutty mix in the cold leaves, and the texture/temperature mouth-moment will not soon be forgotten. Do not mistake this description for one of those "fluff" reviews in the shiny magazines: I calls 'em as I sees 'em, and this was delicious.

The other appetizers included the Cold Soba Noodle Salad (cukes, carrots, sprouts and peanuts in a coconut dressing), salty Edamame (soy pod beans--don't try to eat the pod), Pan Fried dumplings, Steamed Shrimp dumplings and a Fire Cracker Roll. All were firm with lots of filling, especially the roll; a brightly spiced combination of (cooked) crawfish and crispy potatoes topped with a jalapeno pepper slice. Others at the table got Masago Cracker Rolls (featuring shrimp tempura and salmon), the Futo Maki Roll (crab. cucumber, carrot and squash) and, of course, the obligatory California Roll. An exit poll conducted by your Foodie revealed a 100% approval rating.

I ordered the Red Curry Chicken as my entree. Presented like a stew, it was nicely spiced, and loaded with sliced chicken, bell peppers, onions and bamboo shoots. #1 dining companion loved the Grilled Lemongrass Pork Chop (atop a bed of jasmine rice). Other entrees included the hot and nutty Kung Pao with both chicken and shrimp, General Tso's Chicken (the orange sauce was pronounced "not too sweet and just right") and Mango Chicken (with crispy asparagus and a sweet mango counterpoint).

UPDATE: Yes, I do return to places I've reviewed in the past. After all, who knows what might have changed? After several recent visits to Saketumi, I can tell you that they are doing a good job of keeping up the quality. Additional suggestions include the delightfully meaty Tea Smoked Ribs and the Steamed Shrimp dumplings. I usually like my dumplings with a little fried crust, but these are quite good. On our most recent visit (last night, in fact) we had the Shrimp and Crab Fried Rice. The mild rice mixture was packed with seafood. Of course, I got the Lettuce Wrap & Roll as an entree, but I already waxed rhapsodic about that in the previous paragraphs. Front-of-House manager Kim continues his attempts at being inscrutible, but it barely hides his wicked sense of humor and friendly attitude.

One thing I have to tell you that impressed me was our efficient server making a point to remind me that the gratuity was included in the check. Given the abundance of alcohol and noisy, big-table distractions, how many times has this been overlooked, with the server walking away with 40 or so percent? Kudos, Donny, and thanks.

Driving north from Rehoboth Beach, Saketumi is located on the west side of Beach Highway, just past the Rt. 24 intersection. They do a busy take-out business and they take reservations: (302) 645-2818. Click here for Saketumi's menu. (L., D., Bar). Price range: Moderate +.