Rehoboth Foodie

When you think of the Rehoboth Beach boardwalk, you can't help but think of Gus & Gus' Place. It's as much a part of life around here as salt water taffy, the bandstand, parking tickets and summer evening happy hour on Baltimore Ave. Located right on the boardwalk at the foot of Wilmington Avenue, Gus & Gus' has survived hurricanes, nor'easters and (so far) even the meddling "food police" in order to continue serving up their iconic burgers, cheesesteaks, dogs, chicken, breakfasts and fries.

Gus and Gus' does not stand on ceremony. With the Atlantic Ocean at your back, you belly-up to the window (after standing in line for a while in the summer), and state your culinary requirements. There's also a counter, a few booths and a little dining room inside if you want to sit down. You might sprout a pimple or two after being in there for a while (the fryers and the grills are galloping along at full speed), but it's all part of the experience. And the waitresses are simply delightful. Y'know, you can whomp up all the $22 "gourmet burgers" you want to, but Gus and Gus' is still the best for a couple of bucks. The salty ocean breeze, the aroma of the constantly full grill, memories of vacations past and the parade of humanity in all its diverse glory is a "value added" that helps make the food extra special.

The cheesesteaks are great. I get mine with lettuce, tomatoes, mayo, extra pickles and hot peppers. Don't wear your favorite shirt! It's messy. The flat, frozen burger patty (it clangs deliciously when it hits the grill) and the fresh, flat and not-too-heavy roll (with some mustard, relish and fried onions) just screams "boardwalk." The hot dogs are also grilled--order it well-done for a crispy "snap" (you might or might not get it that way, but this ain't the Waldorf Astoria here). Unless you carry it out, the fried chicken is probably best ordered inside. It has a delicious, crispy coating and I suggest you order it "well-done," as the well-meaning and friendly staff sometimes tries to get it to you a little quicker than they should.

I'm a sucker for a corn dog (get it?). Theirs are the frozen variety, and are cooked to order. So don't get it if you're on your way to a Board Meeting or have to catch a plane. But if you're at the beach to chill out, relax and enjoy yourself, it's worth the wait. I like mine slathered with mustard. I have to admit to you that one of my favorite May birthday evening traditions (even before I moved here) was to get a burger and a corn dog at Gus & Gus', then bravely wrangle both (on their respective paper plates) onto the beach, all the while mindful of the wind and hungry, thieving seagulls, and then happily shove the entire thing into my face, in the dark, as the water swirled around my feet. After the gastronomic bacchanal was complete, I turn around and take-in the neon spectacle that is the boardwalk: the huge orange Dolle's sign, the colors and sounds of Funland, and the sparkling, bracelet-like string of lights stretching north and south. That's pretty much all I need to reinforce my reasons for moving to Rehoboth Beach. The crowning touch on my birthday festivities would, of course, be a fizzy, celebratory Alka-Seltzer.

There will be those who will turn up their noses at places like Gus & Gus'. I have friends who are constantly "at war with food" and like to listen to themselves sanctimoniously disparage lunches and dinners on the boardwalk. Well, everything in moderation (including moderation!). I didn't move here to eat lettuce and turn up my nose at what makes a beach resort a beach resort. Sorry about that. I needed to share.

Gus & Gus' is at 15 S. Boardwalk. Just go east on Wilmington Ave. If you hear a big splash, you've gone too far. They are closed in the off season, but sometimes will surprise you and open on a particularly temperate weekend. If you've never been there, you owe it to yourself to give 'em a call at (302) 227-3329 to make sure. Gus and Gus do not have an online menu available. (B., L., D.) Price range: Inexpensive -.